Changing Motor Mounts

Re: 81 300D

The rubber motor mounts are just about flat, no doubt causing alot of vibration. How much trouble is it changing them things out? Thanks

Phill,

The difficulty depends upon the equipment you have at hand. If you have a chain hoist of some kind, use a sling on the eyes found at the front and rear of the engine. This would be easiest. If not, a floor jack and a two by twelve block under the pan to distribute the weight should work.

There are two allen bolts that go up through the bottom. Remove them, raise the engine far enough to change the mounts. To be on the safe side you may want to disconnect the radiator hoses and throttle linkage. I believe the exhaust and other things will be okay if you raise the engine only high enough to get the mount out and back in.

I would expect Deezel to chime in here with safety tips. You may know that he is our self appointed Safety Officer on this site. And I'm sure we all appreciate it. He has offered some VERY GOOD safety points in the past.

Good luck,

------------------
Larry Bible
'84 Euro 240D, 516K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles

Thanks Larry, just the info I needed. Will
have to do it with a jack for now.

I talked to an MB mechanic the other day, asked him what he'd charge to change them.
He said neighborhood of $100. So, figure
I'll try it myself first! Take care, Phill

[Benzmac]

We have great prices on these!! Check us out. Also the size on that allen bolt is an 8 or 10 and the bolt on top is a 17mm.

------------------
Benzmac:
Donnie Drummonds
1981 280GE SWB
1987 16V
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM

What is the procedure for changing the motor mounts on a 1991 300D 2.5 turbo?

[TCCBass]

Regarding motor mounts, I replaced one that I thought was bad, and when I lowered the engine back down, it looked as flat as the previous one. I will embark soon on replacing the drivers side (much easier) which seems to be sounding a pronounced "clank" when the engine is turned off. What is the best process for checking to see if the mounts are bad? Mine don't look cracked, but the engine does seem to vibrating more. I am installing aftermarket, German made mounts--are they as good as OEM?
Thanks for any suggestions...

Robert


------------------
R Talley
84 300D-T

[Benzmac]

I have seen where the OE ones will outlast the aftermarket ones 2to1


------------------
Benzmac:
Donnie Drummonds
1992 500E (very soon I hope
1981 280GE SWB
ASE CERTIFIED MASTER AUTO TECHNICIAN
SERVICE MANAGER FOR 14 BAY FACILITY
MERCEDES SPECIALIST 8 YRS
PARTNER IN MERCEDESSHOP.COM

Oh My! Look at the length of this string and I am just getting around to telling you to watch out for your fingers! I may have to revoke my self appointed title!

As far as safety tips, I have my usual rant about using jack stands, chocking the wheels, having another person not under the car who knows how to use a floor jack around at all times. The other point is that make sure the engine does not drop or shift such that it amputates a finger that is positioning a mount. This means that the ols 2X12 that Larry suggested could be a precarious situation that tumbles off right when your finger is in the way. The right way to do this is have two other 2X4's positoned to wedge the engine against each of the fender wells. Home made equipment is acceptable, does think about what could go wrong and plan for it!

How did I do Larry?

Regards,

------------------
Deezel
87 300TDT
150,000 miles

[robi99]

Check out the "Poor Man's Mercedes Newsletter" http://mercedesdot.com/
The current issue has a great article on changing motor mounts, complete with photos.

Deezel,

A++

I knew you'd have some good suggestions.

Have a great day,
Larry

[This message has been edited by LarryBible (edited 04-12-2000).]