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  #1  
Old 08-14-2003, 11:07 PM
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Thumbs down bellt tightener--190e

The cam broke where the rod is attached(rear of tensioner).I got a new one and did the replacement------When I tightened the 13mm long nut it also broke.I thought I had the rod in correct.What am I doing wrong?I did not put much tourqe on it.Thanks in advance,Fred
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Old 08-14-2003, 11:16 PM
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The tensioner itself need to be replaced. The "cam" part of that adjuster rotates around too far because it's worn out, then the threaded rod pushes against the "round" part of the cam and it more or less "breaks itself". You'll probably end up with the new style tensioner, is this a 2.3 or 2.6?

Gilly
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Old 08-14-2003, 11:33 PM
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Is this what can also make a rattling sound when first starting the engine, but then goes away after a few seconds? It is coming from the front of the engine.

Haasman
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Old 08-14-2003, 11:40 PM
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Mmmm, no I wouldn't suspect the belt tightener apparatus or tensioner, maybe the chain tensioner (timing chain) is wearing.
The small shock on the belt tensioner can make a rattling noise, but it wouldn't go away after a few seconds.

Gilly
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Old 08-15-2003, 12:54 AM
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When the viscous coupling on my fan was loose, it banged and emitted a tinny sound a little when the engine started up and when I turned it off.

Check the fanblade for wobble, with the engine turned off, of course. That could be the problem.
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Old 08-15-2003, 03:16 AM
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Thanks. I will check it out.
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  #7  
Old 08-15-2003, 09:44 AM
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Absolutely, the belt tensioner will cause a rattle when the engine is first started. It can also rattle every time the engine is raised from idle with a load on it. My old 2.3 was horrendous. Simply replacing the shock won't fix it. My 2.8 is making the same noise on startup and in the last few days is starting a little rattle off idle. It has nothing to do with the camchain. It has been replaced as a maintenance item recently with no effect on that rattle. I know I will have to do the belt tensioner very soon.
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Old 08-15-2003, 09:29 PM
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Is there a particular way to check and see what's wrong with the belt tensioner?

Haasman
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Old 08-15-2003, 10:34 PM
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It's hard to describe, but I'll try.

OK, you already replaced the "cam" part that the rod attaches to right?
That cam part slips onto the tensioner itself onto these 2 "flat spots", directly opposed from eack other. OK, these 2 flat spots should be "aimed" at the center of the idle pulley on the tensioner. If this alignment is off by more than 10 degrees, the tensioner is worn out. I'm betting it's off by alot more than that.

Gilly
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Old 08-15-2003, 10:59 PM
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Thanks Gilly

I actually know exactly what you are speaking about since I went and looked at the replacement parts.

Haasman
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  #11  
Old 08-15-2003, 11:12 PM
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Re: bellt tightener--190e

Thanks for all the help.The problem turned out to be the rubber between the inner and outer members-----fjones
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  #12  
Old 08-19-2003, 03:19 PM
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Gilly,

Great info.

What has been changed on the new/replacement tensioner?

This is a timely discussion since I just returned from the dealer with a new tensioner for my wife's 190e.

It was running fine except yesterday her A/C stopped. Checked it this morning and the belt was very loose. Attempted to tighten the adjustment rod after loosening the lock nut but the belt wasn't getting any tighter. Removed the tensioner and it looks physically fine, but I will certainly compare it to the new one.

I noted that the old one appears to have thread marks through the rear portion where the lock bolt goes through. The lock bolt came off with alot of material from this area. There in no threads or marks on the new one. I am assuming the old one is probably shot.

Thoughts?

Tinker
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  #13  
Old 08-19-2003, 08:06 PM
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On the 2.3 motor (M102) they changed the way the shock absorber mounts, comes with a new bracket.

Not sure about the "thread" question, maybe just thread marks from starting the center bolt? The center bolt will just pass right through the center of the tensioner, no threading involved.

Read what I wrote earlier in this thread about how to tell if the tensioner is shot (flat spots on rear of tensioner should "aim" towards the center bolt of the idler pulley)

Gilly
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