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  #1  
Old 08-14-2003, 11:18 PM
brookspw's Avatar
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Location: Nashville, TN
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Tierod removal and installation

Ok, the tierods have been ordered and delivered (Thanks, Phil!). I noticed that they are identical except for the retaining nut -- item #2 (what is the proper name?).

Check out this picture:


Ok, my plan -- obviously -- is to install it just as the current one is installed. Here are my question:
  • I assume that both ends should be screwed out until they match closely the length of the one removed.
  • Once the ends are secured, I tighten the hex clamp (3), then tighten #1 against #2.
  • Therefore, to adjust toe, one would loosen the hex clamp (3), adjust, retighten #3 and tighten 1 against 2 again.
  • My current (old) tie rod has a larger nut where item 2 is on this tie rod. This new one isn't a nut at all, just a thick metal washer type thing. This holds purely by compression against the split, tapered sleeve, correct?

Please instruct, correct, and enlighten. I plan on driving straight to the alignment shop.

I currently -- at rest -- have about 2" play each way before the steering mechanism moves the wheels. It is primarily the left tie rod, on the inner end.

By the way, my toe is out about 1/16 (thanks, LarryBible, for instructions). It is supposed to me toed IN 3/32. Therefore, I am toed OUT 5/32, just a little more than 1/8. Should explain my outside edge feathering on the front tires, too.

Thanks mucho.
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1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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  #2  
Old 08-15-2003, 11:15 AM
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Ok, now. 19 people have viewed this post and nobody knows ? I even included a nice, "telestrated" picture

Here's a challenge: See who can give me the answer before LarryBible.

Thanks, guys.
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1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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  #3  
Old 08-15-2003, 11:30 AM
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I assume that both ends should be screwed out until they match closely the length of the one removed.

Correct

Once the ends are secured, I tighten the hex clamp (3), then tighten #1 against #2.
Therefore, to adjust toe, one would loosen the hex clamp (3), adjust, retighten #3 and tighten 1 against 2 again.

Sounds right

My current (old) tie rod has a larger nut where item 2 is on this tie rod. This new one isn't a nut at all, just a thick metal washer type thing. This holds purely by compression against the split, tapered sleeve, correct?

Not exactly sure what you are talking about here.

Personally, I would make the new and old tie rods as close to the same lenght as I can get and then take it to an alignment shop to have a proper alignment done.
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Old 08-15-2003, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by engatwork

My current (old) tie rod has a larger nut where item 2 is on this tie rod. This new one isn't a nut at all, just a thick metal washer type thing. This holds purely by compression against the split, tapered sleeve, correct?

Not exactly sure what you are talking about here.
As indicated in this picture, you see the smooth, thick washer type thing(2) that is next to the adjustment nut (1). On my OLD tie rod, the item marked (2) is actually a larger hex nut.

Thanks.
__________________
1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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  #5  
Old 08-15-2003, 11:40 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2000
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I am confused as to what your question actually is.

Your procedure sounds fine to me, but do you have the pullers to get the old parts separated? It took a lot of force to get them apart when I replaced the steering box on my SL. And they didn't come apart gently - as I turned the puller with a large wrench, there was a loud bang and the tie rod "jumped" out. So make sure your hands and other body parts are clear.
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'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #6  
Old 08-15-2003, 03:27 PM
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My main question is: Am I correct that to tighten #1, I first clamp #3 then tighten #1 AGAINST #2 -- and that will hold it?
__________________
1994 C280, dark green metallic
105k miles

1991 190E 2.6, Black
191,500 miles
(sold to another forum member)

2003 Chevy Tahoe LT, Redfire Metallic
105k miles

1989 Mustang GT Cobra Convertible
43k miles
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