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liquivac or top sider
where have all the people gone that was selling these things on ebay?
mine bit the dust after only a few uses. is that the reason because they were no good? i can probably make my own check valve flap. just need a method to hold the flap. any other good top siders around? |
One more reason to drain the oil out the bottom. My end wrench that I use to remove the drain plug has never failed. It was also much less expensive than one of these gizmos'.
Have a great day, |
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You can find the "original" Topsider MVP Oil Changer from www.SkiLimited.com for $45.00 + shipping. Just go to their webside and do a keyword seach on topsider. The topsider is used by many MB DIYers. It's a good quality product that should last for years.
Hope this helps... Russell |
The Ultimate Topsider........
Here's what I've been using: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MIT-7201.html
I paid $99.00 for mine 8 months ago so this is a steal. All components are of industrial grade and this unit requires minimal attention during the oil removal cycle. It will hold 8.7 Quarts so even the big V8's can be drained easily. Definitely worth the money IMO. |
Go with the one from the tool warehouse. I have the liquivac and while it does perform the function, it is difficult/awkward to pump (reqires at least 50 strokes to empty my TE), the tank deforms when the vacuum builds, it is slow to work and the tubing collapses when used on anything other than a cold engine (i.e. on every oil change).
I will be purchasing one that is pumped vertically when the Liquivac gives up the ghost. Ed |
I have the topsider from skilimited
and have used it only three times but works great. i do wish the capacity was greater as I have the V8 and it requires two 'sessions' to drain.
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Between the old 190E 2.6, the C230, Dad's C230, and our E300D-t, I have done at least 30 changes with my LiquiVac. I have yet to have the tank collapse, but the seals are wearing and I'm going to buy a kit to freshen it up. I do the changes with the oil hot and the tube does collapse somewhat, but seems to work well.
All in all it was worth the money and I would not hesitate to buy another. |
I'd try the MityVac. Not only because the capacity is better, but because I had the Green Liquid Vac and it was just horrid for me. I threw it in the trash.
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Mine is the Topsider brand, metal tank (therefore non-collapsing unless driven over), and has worked fine for six years. It's changed oil on two different boats, cleared that last little noisome bit out of a marine holding tank annually for fall layup and been able to be cleaned itself afterwards, drained Seadoo bilges and cruiser bilges both, and sucked several gallons of water out of the bottom of a cruiser's gas tank (please don't ask). The seals are still good after exposure to a variety of uses never intended by the designer, and it holds more than my 560SL oil sump does.
One of the more useful ways I've spent the 45 bucks or whatever it cost, and one of the things I've bought that actually worked as expected (and better) and keeps on doing so. |
to: John Shellenberg
where are you planning to get your repair kit on the liquivac? tks craig |
If I were compelled to use one of these top-side gadgets, I'd likely just drive down the street to Quik-Lube.
Pull the encapsulation panel, loosen drain plug, drain, look underneath for things that might be going wrong, etc., etc. Larry Bible is absolutely right about this one. |
my 560 with oil cooler holds 10 quarts. I always drain it from the bottom. The junk is always at the bottom, and plus you get to see if there are any metal shavings.
Larry said a long time ago the last drop is the dirtiest. Plus I like to get under the car and check everything else out too. |
That is true. If I had an ML, I would get the oil nice and hot, then I would suck most all of it from the top, then let the drain plug let the rest out.
I know it makes a mess, but that way it would be less. |
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