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#1
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300E hesitating after repairs..HELP
Hello Board,
My 300E was going through its little bugs for a while. So I recently had my fuel mixture adjusted, my 02 sensor replaced(with the Ford Mustang sensor). Well after that, my car now hesitates badly. I feel the hesitation when coming off a stoplight, all the way to freeway speeds. My idle is more steady, but it hesitates badly when I am on the gas. What now could be wrong with my car??? I have replaced : injector seals 02 sensor fuel filter used 2 bottles of techron ia 1/4 tank of gas new gas cap new plugs and wires new cap and rotor Should I disconnect the battery so the ECU restes?? What else could be causing my car to hesitate???
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1987 mercedes 300E 1995 e320 conversion(hated the 300e grill) HID/Xenon (D2S) Keyless Entry Monochromatic Paint (Custom Blue) Smoked Tails Flat Badged (front) Debadged (rear) custom "carbon fiber" console 18 inch HP EVO rims Sold! Now I drive a Monte Carlo SS http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../352975_67.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../748335_24.jpg |
#2
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Perhaps you have messed up the A/F. What symptoms did it have to make you think it needed adjustment?
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#3
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I suspect a worn-out airflow meter. It is a little black box on the front of the air intake. Remove the air cleaner. Pull the connector off a bit so that you can get a problem on the middle pin. Measure the voltage between it and ground with the engine idling. You should see a stable .7 volts.
If you do a search, you will find an excellent post by sbourg on the subject. I also did one on its replacement on my 300E.
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Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe |
#4
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I did a search for all your posts Mike,you have had so much trouble and done so much with this vehicle that basically it is impossible to diagnose. An accurate diagnosis depends on having what is called a baseline, that is, to know what state a vehicle is in or was in prior to a drivability problem occuring.
Performance depends on the whole system working together correctly, too much has been done to this engine. This may seem blunt, but I see similiar scenarios everyday. Oh yeah, just my opinion, and opinions are like anus's, everybodies got one. |
#5
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Quote:
Does anyone have even a slight idea of what could be wrong with my car??
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1987 mercedes 300E 1995 e320 conversion(hated the 300e grill) HID/Xenon (D2S) Keyless Entry Monochromatic Paint (Custom Blue) Smoked Tails Flat Badged (front) Debadged (rear) custom "carbon fiber" console 18 inch HP EVO rims Sold! Now I drive a Monte Carlo SS http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../352975_67.jpg http://memimage.cardomain.net/member.../748335_24.jpg |
#6
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I agree with inspector1. I too have read alot of your posts and am of the belief that you most likely have shot yourself in the foot - possibly many times.
You've made numerous "adjustments" and had work done in shop(s). I'm not sure I follow your comments about changing parts. If you don't know what you are doing, changing parts can indeed cause problems. The questions you've asked and the comments you've made lead me to believe you should let someone else fix your car. If my comments bother you - so be it. I call it the way I see it. |
#7
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Make a harness so that you can monitor the duty cycle, and better yet (if possible) the EHA current while driving. This will allow you to see what is happening.
If you set the mixture with the O2 sensor cold, it may not be on the correct mixture while driving. You should be getting a little enrichment on acceleration (lower duty cycle, I think), going back to 50%. EHA current should be near zero at idle, go positive on acceleration, then go to -20 or so on closed throttle deceleration (shuts off the fuel). If you have no change on acceleration, you aren't getting acceleration enrichement. That is usually the result of a bad potentiometer -- it "tells" the computer you are moving the throttle and airflow is going up. You should also check the base position of the flap in the mass air flow sensor -- must be at the base of the cylindrical section at idle -- and your base fuel mixture. You can unplug the EHA and see where the duty cycle goes -- without the EAH plugged in, there will be no feedback, so the O2 sensor just sees the current mixture, doesn't change it. If the duty cycle changes off scale with the EHA unplugged, try to set it to 50% and see how it drives. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
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