Rafi,
Do you recall step by step how did you replace the FPR? Do you have to cut off fuel line somehow so you don't get fuel all over the place? How did you manage? any level of details will be great help for me. Thanks.

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Joe95E420

by removing the cap at the front of the fuel rail nest the T-stat housing and bleed the pressure off like letting the air out of a tire. This will allow the the FPR to both come out easier(becuasae there will little to no pressure applied against it and lessen the amount of gasoline that spills out. Word of caution, have the replacement in hand or vcertainly at the ready so that you can plug it in IMMEDIATELY after removing the other. At almost $2/gal , you certainly don't want 93= octane spilling all over the concrete

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Regards,

Albert
aldedmon@yahoo.com

Joseph_H It is very simple there may by be some gasoline that seeps about not much in my case place the new part in.

Stepwise:
1. remove the filter housing to reach the FPR
2. remove the vacuum hose to the FPR
3. remove the snap ring on the FPR
4. add a dab of oil to the new FPR 2 O-rings
5. remove old FPR
6. install new FPR push down in rioght angle to FPR holder while wiglling the FPR by holding the vacuum hose connector.
7. install the snap ring
8. connect the vacuum hose to FPR
9. dry the area around FPR
10. turn on the ignition key to see if there are any leaks.
11. install the air filter housing and its accessories.

Great step-by-step details. I am in process of troubleshooting an issue where my 95 E420 engine shakes when i first start the car after being parked for 2-3 days. in my case the shaking stops once the engine is warmed up and this problem doesn't happen that often either. This happened twice so far after the car is parked a lengthy time. Just wondering if the FPR, among other things, can be the culprit.

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Joe95E420

aldedmon,
You lost me there.. I think you meant next to the T-Stat housing while reading your post sound like I need to remove the t-stat housing. On my M119 engine, there is what looks like a release valve with a cap setting on the fuel rail almost to the right (standing in front of the engine) it is under the front engine cover and kind of above and behind the power steering reservoir. So i remove the cap and press something to let the air out? Would that also release fuel as well? Please explain. Thanks.

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Joe95E420

hello everyone !!! i"m a machanic work out at home , i do alots of work on late model BMW & MERCEDES , so far i fix two sl 300;500 with exact same problems as you guys posted here after these cars went in and out of other shop end up with a longs list of replacement parts i mean all of ignt & fuel except it fuel injector, finally come to me , here what i found the cars would start & run fine when it cold but when it getting warm up it start to run rought like miss fire , will not moved like it should when speed 5 to 15 MPH @ 1k to 2k RPM unless you give it alots of gas at the padal then for a split second delay it woke up and jump , for hight speed no problem , another things after it run hot you shut it down for 5 min or so , will take a fews crank to start up and smell like raw gas . btw forgot to mention both of these cars got there fuel injectors clean by injectors shop with professonal machine . if all of the above sound like your problems , replace all injectors and seal , the cause is these injector or injectors only leak down when hot (matal on injectors check valve expanted due to heat) make your engine run idle with too much gas (rich) ,after hot shut down it leak down to your intake cause hard to start . hoped this will help some of you guys before spend too much money.

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luan

Do you have experience with cars that have idle problem when cold? My car does this once in a while after leaving it parked in the garage for 2-3 days once I start the engine she shakes for few minutes at idle then drives fine and doesn't do it again. I had this happen twice already in the past few weeks. Any ideas? Thanks.

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Joe95E420

JOSEPH next time leave your car park for a fews day , before you try to start the car charge the battery up ,weak battery(loose juice after sitting for awhile) will cause car run rough at idle until altenator charge it up full ,OVP relay will cause hard to start or no start at all ; cooland temp sensor for the ECM or ECU which ever you call it's some time fail and computer don't know the engine is cold to provide richer fuel mixture when cold start . hoped this help , luan

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luan

I heard that coolant temp sensor could be a culprit in this case and I will test it and replace it. I replaced all spark plugs today and replaced various vacuum hoses with new ones just to make sure these were not an issue. I haven't checked my battery in a while. It is in the trunk. I will take a look and see if it needs distilled water or something. By the way, is the coolant temp sensor the one that has 4-pins? There are three temp sensors setting next to each other on the front side of the engine. One has 1-pin, the other has two (blue connector) while the third is round with 4-pins. Thanks.

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Joe95E420

hello JOSEPH , the sensor with 4 pins is the one , but i still think is your battery is weak cause , if it was your temp sensor , it would act up on you every times you start it cold , battery could become weak even water level still full !!!

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luan