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  #31  
Old 09-11-2003, 07:32 AM
Rafi's Avatar
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You may read my thread if you search "92 400E hesitation". I know it is a different injection system than yours but the principle is the same. Check the fuel pressure regulator, it was not an expensive part on M119 engine and very easy to replace.

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  #32  
Old 09-11-2003, 08:05 AM
inspector1
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Quote:
Originally posted by pmckechnie
I am thinking that you could possibly have a leaking injector.
A KE- jetronic CIS injection system 'leaks' all the time, hence the name, constant injection system. They never close,so they cant leak in the traditional sense of the word. The fuel pressure fluctuates with engine load and delivers more or less fuel. They can plug up.
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  #33  
Old 09-11-2003, 09:40 AM
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About cleaning versus replacing -

I have been advised that replacing is the way to go. You will pay at least $75 for cleaning, and testing. This may not correct the problem. For another $75, ($23 apiece), you can replace with new.

Don't forget the holders and seals.
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'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #34  
Old 09-11-2003, 05:03 PM
seth9903
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'91 560 sel misses when warmed up

I have read through quite a few posts here that refer to a "miss" or "rough idle" when the engine has reached operating temperature. I have the same problem!!! Most of the cars listed here are 190s and 300s it would seem, but the symptoms are exactly the same. I did have the symptom of the high idle and ABS light as well, but that went away with the replacement of the overload relay.

The idle problem makes it seem as though the engine were going to jump out of its mountings. At lower speeds, the jump diminishes, and the engine seems to lose power intermittently, although there is no jump to it as there is at idle. It dies every now and then, although that seems to happen mostly at night, and after that, its back to the low-speed, missing ride home.

This problem is REALLY frustrating. I have taken the car to the neighborhood mechanic a few times, but it always runs well when they try it. They conjecture that it might be:

the ignition coil....

There have been many responses and many different suggestions to this problem, but symptoms of the problem are so specific (any of you afflicted know) that it would seem logical to assume that the problem has a common resolution. My 560 has 265k miles on it, and only started acting up in the last few months.

Whoever knows what the problem is, please, please, please respond...
We all love our cars, but we don't love this problem. I just keep wishing it would break for good!
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  #35  
Old 09-11-2003, 05:35 PM
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Hello seth9903

I have the same problem with my 260E, from 1988, 370 000 km

I changed the coil and many more hardware, and the problem is still there.

I have posted this concern under item called " 260E loss of power while running" and got many replies making good suggestions.

I would like to kow what to do to measure the fuel pressure while driving or check easily the pressure regulators have you any idea?

Performing this check could help.
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  #36  
Old 09-11-2003, 06:08 PM
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Inspector1

True, CIS systems are always spraying fuel when they are running, but it takes 40-50 psi of pressure to make them open and spray. It should only let fuel through if the pressure is above its opening pressure. A leaking injector will let the fuel go through intil the pressure gets to 0 psi. So yes they can leak and put too much fuel in the cylender.
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  #37  
Old 09-11-2003, 06:25 PM
seth9903
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thanks for the note. I looked at the other thread, and there seem to be some good answers that I will apply to my poor car!!
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  #38  
Old 09-12-2003, 06:39 AM
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CTAILOR 738

tHANKS for the opportunity to replie .

I Tried to clean the Bosch Injectors of my 190E, 2.6L, 1988 and It was impossible. We applyed ultrasonic and special chemical, while apply more fuel rate of cleaner and pressure, the injectors was becoming more plugged.

This injectors type are a entire piece, we cant dissambled for changing filters or anything.

Please tell if there is a more effecteve way to clean these injectors.

Thanks


Mario Farias
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  #39  
Old 09-12-2003, 08:43 AM
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Spend the $23 apiece and get new ones! And don't forget to order new holders and seals!
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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #40  
Old 09-12-2003, 12:58 PM
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Starting to see your point Chuck

Greetings All,

Glad to see there is a lot of great responses to this most common problem we all share. I've been keeping track of all the items I need to replace that might or might not fix the problem. I thought I'd see what the cost is if I had to continue on the replacement type of troubleshooting and here's how it seems to break down thus far. I'd be interested to know which parts if any that any of you all have changed on the list that seemed to make the difference and the order that you replaced them.

1. ignition wires $128
2. cap & rotor $101
3. ignition coil $118
4. reference sensor $105
5. water temp sensor $ 21
6. idle control valve $168
7. fuel pressure reg. $224
8. fuel inj complete $174
9. flow meter $462
10. fuel distributor $1314
11. overload relay $ 60

Total $2875
If you stopped short of
fuel distributor $1561

Question is, what do we start replacing first and what is your spending limit to find the cause to this problem. I realize that it could possibly be any of these items individually without further expense. For those that have found one of these items or maybe a different item to be the sole source to their problem, please post it here.

Thanks,

Charles
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  #41  
Old 09-12-2003, 01:18 PM
mac5725
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I'm going to through in my 2 cents again. Since I have found my rough idle starts as the engine transitions from cold to operating temperature I'm thinking its sensor,vacuum or fuel related. Ignition problems (bad plugs, wires, coil, and cap) are more prevelant when a motor is under load and I'm only experiencing it at idle.
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  #42  
Old 09-13-2003, 02:15 AM
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I changed..

I changed wires, Cap and Rot, and plugs to platinum 4s ( but I am going back to regulars Bosch supers, after hearing they are not recommended for older Benz's) I am also quite sure it is a sensor or a vacuum!!! We can do this people, one of these fine days, we will. The determination here is a lot, and this is a very common problem, so problem has to be pinpointed somewhere, maybe different, in some cases, but it's gotta to be.
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  #43  
Old 09-14-2003, 12:20 AM
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uneven idle cured with small expense

On my 87 300E I had irregular or stumbly idle about 2 years ago.
I believe cleaning my idle control canister (a 2" canister type cylinder under the air cleaner just ahead of the throddle body) with WD-40 and MOST importantly replacing the small rubber gasket which seals the air cleaner housing to the fuel distributer-throddle body has completely stopped all those symptoms for my car. Has 198,300 on it now, and had about 160,000 when the idle was crappy and varying. I figure enough dust was getting in to clog up the idle control unit. I don't operate in a dusty enviornment, but ANY dust is too much.

I did replace the air cleaner back then when I discovered that leaky rubber seal gasket. I think it may have cost 4.00 for the part from Fastlane !!

Check it , what do you have to lose?

Luck to you,
DanielW
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  #44  
Old 09-14-2003, 04:43 AM
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DanielW

thanks for you suggestion, could please be more precise about the gasket, which one is it , could you make a photo?
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  #45  
Old 09-14-2003, 01:58 PM
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don't have a way to take a picture, but...

I don't really know that's what yours is doing, but the gasket I refering to is about 4" in a circle, made of black rubber like compound. It is the one which seals the air cleaner housing to the air horn of the fuel dist. I think a careless install of the air cleaner housing may have pushed it down off the lip of the air horn crimping it so it allowed some air, which did not pass thru the filter, to bring in dust at that point. Also used some spray carb cleaner to wash down the entire intake as far down as I could. It was dirty all thru that area. Anyway that's all it took to make my idle not surge any more.
DanielW

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