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  #1  
Old 09-10-2003, 05:41 PM
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Location: SIERRA, CA
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Sealed Transmission.

I have good mechanical skills, I work in service at a large auto dealership (Toyota), but new to Mercedes. I am a little confused. reading on this forum about service on the sealed five speed auto trans on my 98 C230. Several contributors say have the fluid changed, several say do not. My particular car has 140,000 miles on it, is in exceptional condition and drives perfectly, literally a little old lady car which I got a heck of a deal on. One contributor said that changing the fluid at that kind of mileage if it works well may do more harm than good! Help.
Also sometimes the heater/air conditioning fan for the climate control sometimes starts to vary in speed by itself, up and down without any reason, although the system seems to work well. Truth to tell it could blow cooler in hot outside temps. Any ideas? Thanks, Phil.
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  #2  
Old 09-10-2003, 06:30 PM
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Phil,

I heard the same argument on the changing of the fluid, I will let the wise one's debate this one out, personally I would change it. Couple of things to remember, Dip stick is not in the tubing and you have to buy from MB, it is sold as a tool. Also, use MB Fluid ONLY.

Make sure to buy the red tab to seal up the dipstick tubing .20 cents.
Oil is $10 a quart/

Your fluctuation is speed is probably caused by the Blower motor regulator, I dont know if you can buy that as a seperate unit or have to update the blower motor as well, check with your dealer.
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  #3  
Old 09-10-2003, 07:45 PM
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Today while driving with my sunroof open, the sun shone in on the overhead console and heated the interior temp sensor. Even though the interior temperature was not too warm (it was only 13C outside) the ACC ran the fan speed to max and began cooling the interior of the car. The ACC system varies the fan speed depending on heating/cooling needs. You should learn how to read your sensors (press REST for five seconds while engine operating) and see if you can pinpoint what is going on. Today, I checked the sensor to see what the ACC system was reading, and found the interior temp at 28C. I put my hand up, and that's when I found the heat. I closed the sliding roof, and the temp dropped to 20C and the ACC stopped freezing me.

For a list of the sensors, you'll have to do a search. I recommend "AC panel codes" or "PBU codes" and see what you get. Sensor position 01 is the interior temp and position 05 is evaporator temp sensor, which is prone to failure.

You might want to dig deeper into the AC system if it's not cooling well. I have driven my 98 C230 in 40C heat and it had no problems providing ice cold air. And I have a black MB Tex interior.

As to your tranny, the fluid temp must be 80C for the level to be properly determined. My dealer charges an hour for the change, and they use the computer to set the temp sot hey get the fluid level right. Worth it to me, and then I don't have to buy the dipstick either.
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Old 09-10-2003, 09:03 PM
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It's possible but unlikely that we(us) MB owners are a lot smarter than most of the engineers that work and design MB autos, so go ahead and change the the trans fluid. Even though there is no service reccomendation (sealed for life) I don't think it is necessary. After all , MBs are leaders in low manitenace cars, I think the worst thing you can do is ask a dealer whether this service should be performed.?I have over 180,000 miles on my 202 and have never taken the car to a dealer. Car runs flawlessly.
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  #5  
Old 09-10-2003, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Peter Fearing
It's possible but unlikely that we(us) MB owners are a lot smarter than most of the engineers that work and design MB autos...
Ask those that have sludged-up engines thanks to overly long FSS intervals...

...that shook my faith in MB engineers.
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  #6  
Old 09-10-2003, 10:33 PM
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Thanks for the input, I think that I will have the dealership change the trans fluid. To BlackMercedes I was driving today from Folsom to my home, 20 miles on freeway 90 odd degrees. I put on the climate control, set it a little low to 65 degrees after 5 mins the car cooled down nicely. Just as I was thinking how nicely it was working (six hours after putting the question on this site) suddenly the fan dropped to almost nothing, raised to full, dropped again, raised again then settled. Only seconds between each change I may add. Do you or anybody else have a chart of optimum values for the a/c if I get into the output from the control head. Thanks Phil.
Totally off the subject, I changed the battery a couple of days ago (it was original). I know that it reset the computer, it drove better. It seemed to affect the steering though or am I imagining it.
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  #7  
Old 09-10-2003, 10:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by PHILDHB
...suddenly the fan dropped to almost nothing, raised to full, dropped again, raised again then settled. Only seconds between each change I may add.
Sounds like errant behaviour to me.

Read this...

C230 A/C Diagnostic display (Climate control)--How to use
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  #8  
Old 09-10-2003, 11:29 PM
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the up and down blower speed could be the brushes on the motor, i have read that some people found replacement brushes at the vacuum cleaner repair shop, just a thought........
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  #9  
Old 09-11-2003, 09:48 AM
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To start with change the trans fluid! If the fluid in the pan is burnt service only the pan, if the fluid is somewhat clean then also drain the converter. You will need 7+ liters of ONLY the factory fluid. Also check the electrical connector at the front of the trans for fluid leakage, replace if there is any fluid in it.

The most common problem with erratic blower operation is the electronic blower control on the motor. Check for command voltage changes from the A/C pushbutton panel. That car has a "micro" dust-filter, make sure that it has been changed. Both are under the right under-dash panel.

Take note!!!!!
The only reason MB & all other European car makers don't recomend fluid changes like they used to IS; they have to pay for recycling costs for all recommended fluid replacements.
HAS nothing to do with engineering changes at all.
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  #10  
Old 09-11-2003, 11:18 AM
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If you DIY, you can install a drain plug kit on the pan to make this service easier the next time. Less fluid falls on your head when you need to pull the pan for cleaning and replace filter (if there is one).
With a plug, you can also do multiple changes (easily) to dillute as much old fluid as possible without draining the converter, which can be troublesome (or cause damage) in some cases. Not a complete flush, but better than a single change, since the converter holds the bulk of the fluid.

Manufacturers have gone away from providing drain plugs. Probably saves them 50 cents per unit...

(50 cents X 1,000,000 units= hey! bigger executive bonus!)
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