Am considering going to oil changes every 2k miles in the 300DT using the cheapest Walmart oil and the cheapest (probably Mann) filters I can find.

Reason being, it's easy to look at the OD and say "oops, it's an even #, need to change oil". Do this on the Olds with 186k on it, seems to work fine, but it's filters are $1.99, not $7.99.

Or just change once every other month and mark on the calendar a Saturday that we're NOT running or shooting a match.

Or..., do the original plan and go with Synths every 3k and just keep a record of mileage (a novel concept, but one that goes ignored by me quite often, hence the "change on even turnovers".)???

Oil has been talked to death here I know (been lurking for a long time), but this is kind of a different slant on it.

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1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


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"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol

What year 300DT?

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dtf
1994 E320 Wagon (Died @ 308,669 miles)
1995 E300 Diesel (228,000)
1999 E300 Turbodiesel ( died @ 255,000)
2006 Toyota Tundra SR5 AC 4X4 (115,000 miles) rusted frame - sold to chop shop
2011 Audi A4 Avant (165,000 miles) Seized engine - donated to Salvation Army
BMW 330 xi 6 speed manual (175,034 miles)
2014 E350 4Matic Wagon 128,000 miles
2018 Dodge Ram 21,000 miles

'84

__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto

1983 300D - parts car

1979 300TD Auto - Parts car.

1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts.


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"If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol

Mobil 1 15w50 every 5k is my vote, or Delvac 1300 at 2.5k.

Chris Blanchard
1992 300D 2.5 Turbo 153k
1984 300SD 182k (sold)
1985 300D 185k (sold)
1991 300TE 4matic 155k (sold)

dino oil every 3k.

easy to remember (mileage divisible by 3) and 1/2 the cost of synth. 2k is a little too frequent. you gain nothing from doing it that soon.

everyone goes gaga over synth, but the reality of it is that regardless of what oil you put in your car, you need to change it out. it is, in fact, more important to refresh your oil than whether you use synth or dino. which is why you MUST chage oil frequently and regularly. religiously if possible. if you're leaving it in for 5-6k that's just plain laziness. if you don't race your car you don't need the high heat capacity that synth offers.

if you DIY, an oil change should cost you no more than $30 depending on the oil capacity of your car. for synth, figure that the oil will cost you 2x the price of dino.

if you REALLY want to change every 2K definitely go with dino.

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'94 W124.036 249/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'93 W124.036 199/040 leder; 8.25x17 EvoIIs, up in flames...LITERALLY!
'93 W124.036 481/040 leder; euro delivery; 8.25x17 EvoIIs
'88 R107.048 441/409 leder; Euro lights
'87 W201.034 199/040 leder; Euro lights; EvoII brakes; 8x16 EvoIs - soon: 500E rear brakes
'70 R113.044 050/526; factory alloys; Euro lights

It's pretty easy to write milage down on a slip and keep it in your glove compartment, and you sure should use a diesel grade oil like Dello 400........
William Rogers.....