92 400E suspension questions
 

Car: 92 400E - 155,000 miles

My local alignment shop informed me that they would be unable to properly align my car unless the idler arm and the RF inner tie rod were both replaced. I declined to have the shop do the repair, hoping that I may be able to replace these parts myself. I jacked up the car and checked the right front for excessive play and there does indeed appear to be some looseness.

Questions:

1. Has anyone out there replaced the idler arm on a 92 400E ? If so, how difficult was the procedure ? Did you have to raise the engine or remove any exhaust components or were you able to remove the heat shield and then remove the nut and bushings per the Arthur Dalton method descibed here in this forum and angle the idler arm to remove ?

2. How difficult is the replacement procedure for the tie rod(s). I was contemplating replacing both tie rod assemblies (left and right ?). What tie rod parts would I need to order from Fastlane ?

Thanks in advance for all responses,

Ray

Hmmm....Am pondering this too for mine
 

Ray,

How did the shop figure out it was the idler arm that needs replacement? Just curious, I want to understand how to diagnose it.

I am thinking of changing the tie-rod assembly and am thinking of tackling it myself....So If someone is willing to drop some pointers I am also in the market for some input.

Matt,

Unfortunately, I was unable to talk to the mechanic that made the diagnosis, so I can't tell you how he can to the conclusion that the idler arm was one of the parts at fault. Some of the forum topics suggest jacking up the vehicle and checking for play by grasping the tire at 3 & 9 or 12 & 6.

Anyone ?

Ray

Those tie rod ends can be a very sticky wicket. I've had some that took a LOT of heat to get off,,, not a lot of fun. And on a 92, I would suspect they might be pretty well attached.

^

Anybody ?

The answers you have received so far are accurate, in that getting the tapered shafts out of their sockets is sometimes hard work.

You can rent tools from local parts companies, buy a tool or try hammering them yourself. Heat does work well in that with the idea of expanding the "receptacle" enough to let-go of the tapered insert.

Often, a lot of techs simply repeatedly hammer all around the area to influence a release, if you will. Sometimes it takes a lot of hammering.

If it were me, I would try the hammering and heat, if that didn't work I'd seriously consider renting a tool.

Hope this helps, keep us posted-

Haasman

Haasman,

Thanks for the info regarding the tie-rods.

Does anyone have any information regarding the R&R of the idler arm for the 92 400E ?

Thanks in advance,
Ray

The big issue on the 6 cylinder motor is access.
They put the pre-cats on the exhaust manifold in the way.
Otherwise the idler arm bushings would be easy to change.
Remove nut, remove bolt, knock out bushings, replace everything.

Just not sure what the access issues are on the V8.
Someone here must know. These things are a common wear item.

You could probably tell just by looking at it.
If it can't come out the top, the consensus technique is to cutoff the bolt head, then reassemble with the bolt 'upside down'.

Very easy to do...buy the tool to remove the part correctly at your local auto zone...around 9 bucks. My alignment guy told me the same thing and you know what...he was right. I also had to change the strut heads. It really is easy...no heat...and the only banging is on the the end of the tool...package calls it a tie rod seperator although I have always been told it's a ball joint tool.
Anyway it was easy and the ehaust is not in the way...

Brian...92 400E

Just to clarify, I think Brian is talking about the balljoint, where I was talking idler arm bushings.