Can I Turn My Rotors Even..... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

a2aa · #1 10-03-2003, 11:14 AM

...after I have put new pads and drove it 200 miles and still use the same pads??? Reason??? sqeal

(even if I applied the anti-sqeal gooo on the pads)

It's a 94 sl500 and it's the rear brakes doing it. Worse in the mornings. Thanks for all the help.

PS: I have PBR pads on and the car has 44K miles . Rotor history- unknown -I'm assuming it's original equip.

Kestas · #2 10-03-2003, 12:46 PM

Yes, it's not a big deal as long as the old surface isn't too grooved. Check mounting surfaces of the rotor for excessive debris to make sure the rotor turns true. Keep in mind MB rotors don't have a lot of stock for turning. Measure the old rotor thickness.

a2aa · #3 10-03-2003, 03:01 PM

... do I need to scuff the pads as well? The old rotors seem to be thick and not warped(sp?). Anyway , doing it this afternoon to get it ready for turning tomorrow... thanks

Kestas · #4 10-03-2003, 03:13 PM

Some people might recommend it. I'm not that fussy. The pads should wear into the proper mating pattern with the rotor in short order. Just take it easy for the first number of stops. The rears aren't as demanding as the fronts for stopping.

Tip: Put a light coating of neversieze on the rotor mating surfaces before installation to help with rotor removal at the next brake job.

pmckechnie · #5 10-03-2003, 07:42 PM

Had the same problem on my old 500 SEL. Nothing seemed to work. I finally fixed the squeel by installing shims between the pads and caliper. Got the shims at Pep Boys real cheap and they had them in stock. If turning the rotors doesn't help (it didn't on mine) then try the shims.

#6 10-03-2003, 08:06 PM

MB doesn't recomment turning rotors. I suspect your problem is with the pads. Are they OEM pads with shims? If not, you'll need the shims and you should also put anti-squeal compound on the edges of the pads if they are the type held in with pins.

william rogers · #7 10-03-2003, 10:30 PM

new rotor cost hardly any more than having them turned the surface will be better and less chance of warpage. I had squealing problems on both my 126's till I went with ATE pads,both have ATE calipers and rotors......check Fastlane you'l be suprised how inexpensive they are.......
William Rogers........

John Plut · #8 10-04-2003, 12:41 AM

A guy at a parts couter once told me a trick they used when he used to work at a brake shop.

They filed a 45 degree bevel on the leading and trailing edges of the pads. The bevel should be about 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch deep. It stopped my sqealing brakes and I have been doing it ever since whenever I put in new pads. Wear a dust mask, especially with the PBR's (which, incidentally, are good pads in my opinion) because they probably contain asbestos.

I think the bevel helps to stop the pad from "chattering" against the rotor when braking. Anti-squeal goop should be used too but it will not be effective if the brake pads are chattering badly.

John

stevebfl · #9 10-04-2003, 09:13 AM

Getting the right pad composition is the first step in conquering squeeking brakes. The face of the rotor can often aquire the results of overheating and pad degredation.

As mentioned mB doesn't recommend turning and the discs are so cheap you will have a hard time getting them turned much cheaper. If you do not have a run-out or thickness problem the squeek can be handled by rough sanding the surface layer and OE pads.

PBR "Delux" not "Metal master" pads will usually do the job but preparing the surface is the solution.

psfred · #10 10-04-2003, 11:02 AM

PBR pads will scream all the time if used only on the rear -- you need to put them on the front, too (or so I've been told) and you MUST use the antisqueal shims to eliminate the noise.

I prefer to use OEM pads. Yeah, you get more trake dust, that's a pain, but they stop wonderfully and never squeal.....

Peter

#11 10-04-2003, 12:10 PM

If you go to Fastlane and check, you'll see that PBR pads are different from all the other pads (which are all alike).

IMHO, the problem is the pads.

a2aa · #12 10-06-2003, 10:42 AM

I believe the rotors might be the culprit. The main reason I changed the pads in the first place was the sqealing at the rear wheels(with OEM pads). So, after changing ALL the pads, the rears still sqealed. I will "roughen"up the surface of the pads when I re-install them with new rotors. And maybe put a 45 degree on the edges as well to really avoid the noise. Thanks for all the input.