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  #1  
Old 10-16-2003, 06:13 PM
euronatura's Avatar
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Location: Guatemala, Central America
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Timing Chain

Dear Tech Help:

I have a 1988, 190e, 2.3L, 4 Cyl, auto trans. Benz. It currently has 150K miles on it. I have had the car for 10 years and purchased it with only 50K on it (while I lived in the States - moved here due to work, brought the vehicle with me.) I live in the tropics (Central America) but at 5,380 feet above sea level. Only rains from May to October. Yearly average temperature is a nice 72 degrees (never fluctuates nore than 8 degrees.)

My question is at what point should I have the Timing Chain replaced on this vehicle? Also, if there are any other maintanance issues that I should attack given the millage on the vehicle.

The problem I have here, is that the mechanics do not like doing preventive maintance. Their philosophy is "if it ain't broke don't fix it." But I feel that given the millage, there has to be some preventive maintance that needs to be done.

Thanks in advance for any insight and recomendations.

Ig

P.S. What are the valve stems? have read other posts and seen recomendations on this? Can not find this topic in my trusty Haynes Manuel.

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Old 10-16-2003, 08:01 PM
rmakela
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timing chain

I'm a licenced automotive & ( truck & coach ) mechanic up here in northern Ontario , Canada . ,which or governmment now can implement two diffferent classes ,of which we have to pay now twice the amount to practice our profession. To get back at your question reguarding preventive maintance ;if it's made in North America , buy the time you have followed their plan the rest of the unit is garbage;however a Mercedes follow Their PM maintance.My timing chain chain jumped , causing damage, the cause was a $14.00 item. PS a valve stem is the appendage from the valve face.
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Old 10-16-2003, 08:29 PM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
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The valve stem is indeed the part extending through the head from the combustion chamber to the rocker arm. There is a rubber seal (Viton actually now, I think) that prevents oil from being sucked down the valve stem and valve guide (the tube the stem goes in). These get old and leak, causing blue smoke on startup and excess oil consumption. If you use a liter of oil in less than 2000k, you probably need to have them replaced.

On early 601 engines, the guides could wear too much as well -- you will have idle problems from the air going down the worn guides and very high oil use.

Preventive maintenance:

Oil changes at 3000 miles (convert to kilometers!) for mineral oil or 6000 miles for synthetic base oils (Mobil 1, etc). Oil filter each change. Change air filter every 30,000 miles (or less if you live in a dusty area, as I'm sure you do when it's not raining for six months....).

Clean the brake pad slots in the calipers every 15,000 miles. Change automatic transmission fluid and filter every 30,000, make sure you also drain the torque converter. Change differential lubricant every 30,000 miles.

By this milage and age, I would check the condition of the ball joints and steering linkage joints up front, and the condition of the suspenstion links and subframe mounts in the rear. Steering problems and sensitivity to crosswinds indicate worn or bad parts.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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Old 10-17-2003, 06:57 PM
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Cool

My question is at what point should I have the Timing Chain replaced on this vehicle?
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Most of the info on this board suggests that timing chains and related parts be replaced at 100K miles and/or ten years. Some of the related pieces are plastic and as the plastic ages it becomes brittle and can break and fall into the chain and teeth causing big problems.
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Old 10-17-2003, 07:22 PM
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when it is stretched (worn) more than 4 degrees at the cam.

Do a search for how to check it.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #6  
Old 10-17-2003, 09:25 PM
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Location: Southern California
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Re: Timing Chain

Quote:
Originally posted by euronatura
Dear Tech Help:
The problem I have here, is that the mechanics do not like doing preventive maintance. Their philosophy is "if it ain't broke don't fix it." But I feel that given the millage, there has to be some preventive maintance that needs to be done.
If you have the original owner's documentation there is a maintenance schedule. The W201 is not PM intenstive. Basics are fluid changes - engine oil, auto trans oil, coolant, and brake fluid, plus filters - oil, air, and fuel.

Most other things are check this/check that and replace as necessary. I do all my PM, troubleshooting, and repairs (nothing major yet).

If you don't have this documentation you can probably get some copies from the local MB distributor or MB USA.

Duke
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  #7  
Old 10-17-2003, 10:12 PM
rmakela
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timing chain

Their is a difference between preventive maintaince and scheduled maintaince in my opion. scheduled maintainace is changeing fluids & filters , preventive maintainace examples timing chain & hardware, anti-seize compound on bolts,under coating ,replacing hoses & lines before they calf out.ect.... In hind sight I should have replaced my chain rails because I have now an expensive repair ahead of me . P.S preventive mainaince is trying to catch a problem before it becomes a problem. Rick
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  #8  
Old 10-24-2003, 07:05 PM
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Location: Guatemala, Central America
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Update!

Thanks once again to all who responded to my original thread on my doubts concerning the timing chain. (and the other threads that I read) Due to this forum I was able to go a shop informed and knowledgeable about this issue.

I just returned from the shop where I picked up my car after having the chain and tensioner changed. All other parts were in great condition therefore no need to change. Also, had the belt dampener (?) changed.

I AM VERY HAPPY!!!

My car no longer sounds like a deisel and purrrrssss like a kitten!

150,000 miles and still going!

Thanks again.

P.S. Parts where only US$90 (Who said parts for this car were expensive) and labor charged was US$100 (I live in Central America.) Best US$190.00 I have spent in a long time.

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Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.

2006 - Suzuki Gran Vitara (2.0 L fully equipped) Like this car so far except for trying to put on the seatbelt.
1988 - 190e - 2.3L - 172K miles (It now belongs to the exwife)
1999 - Chevy Blazer LS Fully Equiped - killed it June 2006
2001 - Honda Civic EX - 68K miles (sold June 2004)
1963 - 220S - Dual Carb 6 cyl. (sold)
1994 - Yamaha WaveRaider (fun to ride)
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