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#16
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bjcsc.............everything looks visually ok........boots, rubbers etc...........but I have detected play when rocking the tire holding it at 12 & 6 o'clock..........I feel my bearings are ok....recently repacked & adjusted with a gauge, so am thinking ball joints or inner bush of upper control arm
Seems best option is to replace both while I am there..........your struggles with the lower ball joint causes me some concern May opt to pay for a Tech to do it, but that is usually the last option for me |
#17
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David,
On MBs it is the lower ball joint that is loaded. You need to unload the joint by jacking one side up and placing a jack stand at the outermost point of the lower control arm. Remove the tire and stick a long pry bar between#6 and #9 the lower control arm and lower ball joint. If you get more than a couple of millimeters, the joint is fairly worn. You can prang around on #4 the bushings for the upper control arm and see if you get any movement there. I think your clunk may be coming from a broken engine mount. I've seen it before. The weight of the engine shifts once in one direction until you turn in the opposite direction which makes it shift again. Good luck, Peter
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Auto Zentral Ltd. |
#18
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Thanks for the advice Peter..............interesting thought re engine mounts.....I'll check them out, do some prying as you suggested and report back
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#19
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David Speed,
have you checked yor springs they may be broken. I had it on both sides. |
#20
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Does your vehicle has a torsion style front end anti-sway bar? If so, check for worn bushings ( or just plain dry) at the points where the bar is fastened to the frame. The bar flexs in one direction when turning left, then the oposite way when turning right. Thus, usually only one of the bushings will "pop" at a time, giving the alternate turning effect thunk. I once replaced my rubber bushings with high performance "poly" bushings. The poly bushings snaped and poped and the noise was amplified through the frame. I went back to rubber. ttt
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Resistance is Futile. |
#21
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Replacing #20 (Guide Rod Bushing)
Here's a thread on the subject, which discusses various options for moving the control arm forward W126 guide rod bushing
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1986 560SL 2002 Toyota Camry 1993 Lexus |
#22
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Thanks guys.............I feel I'm narrowing down my 'clunk'
I'm becoming obsessed to the stage that it is ruining what is really quite a smooth ride I'm now convinced the 'clunk' also comes with braking while turning and the first brake after change of direction (back to forward) ........but it is a bit variable.....AHHH! My latest thought is the guide / track rod bushing......#20........seems changes in the longitudinal forces strain this bushing I read your thread donbryce.........will have to work out a way to unload this bushing to check it.......I have a come-along / hand winch so will try pulling the LCA forward at the weekend........mine is a w123, but I suppose similar except for the subframe I guess I'll end up replacing everything that doesn't require removal of the spring........so would have to leave the lower ball joint to a Suspension Tech |
#23
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David:
Just so you're clear, the spring does not have to be removed when replacing the lower ball joint...
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1982 Mercedes-Benz 300CD 1982 Mercedes-Benz 240D - stick |
#24
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bjcsc.......thanks..........had another look at it and of course you are right.......seems with the spring in place and using a jack under the LCA, the only things I can't replace are the inner bushes of the LCA and the guide / track rod bushing where it connects to the LCA
Still a bit concerned about removing the lower ball joint.......but hey, I've got to give it a go !! |
#25
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David,
Removing the spindle and hammering out the lower joint is a piece of cake. Installin the new joint is another story. You or your machine shop need a special tool to install. Your machinist may be able to do it without the tool, but he may never do work for you again. Good luck. Peter
__________________
Auto Zentral Ltd. |
#26
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Thanks Peter..........if it's the lower ball joints she's going to the shop after your advice and reading all the threads of the struggles to pop the joint out of the LCA
I spent half a day pushing, pulling & prying .......everything feels pretty tight...............used a 5ft piece of wood as a lever under the hub with a jack under the LCA and couldn't get any significant movement in the lower ball joints.......boots look good Set up a come-along to pull the LCA forward.......track /guide rod felt tight with no detectable movement (pic below......followed your description engatwork........is this something like the pic you 'wish you had taken'?........if it is feel free to use it) I'm now thinking the torsion bar mountings.........got a 'groan' backing out of a park after a 50mile drive........could feel it through the pedals / fire wall.........tecqboy may be right on the money..........his description of how my 'change of direction clunks' could be realated to the torsion bar seems logical Seems the only way to check the torsion bar mounts is to remove them.........is a check/replace possible without removing brake booster |
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