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  #16  
Old 11-13-2003, 04:05 PM
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I used a good meter at work today and there was 2 settings for DC amperage. 400MA and 40MA/20A. I set it to the 40MA/20A and place the meters prongs in between the neg cable and neg batt post and it reads 0.96 Whats this mean? is this .96 meaning almost 1amp or something else? Im going to work on it tonight and see if I can get it to drop by pulling fuses, Thanks again everyone.

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  #17  
Old 11-14-2003, 02:34 PM
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.96

yes...means you are pulling almost 1 amp.
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  #18  
Old 11-15-2003, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by satern
I used a good meter at work today and there was 2 settings for DC amperage. 400MA and 40MA/20A. I set it to the 40MA/20A and place the meters prongs in between the neg cable and neg batt post and it reads 0.96 Whats this mean? is this .96 meaning almost 1amp or something else? Im going to work on it tonight and see if I can get it to drop by pulling fuses, Thanks again everyone.
Hi satern
have you solved your problem?
I have the same I measured the impedance of the car circuit, with the battery disconnected, and found +/-15 ohms that leads to 1 Amp (too much).
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  #19  
Old 11-15-2003, 02:05 PM
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No I cant find it. Ive dissconected everything I could think find and it still draws. Are there any other things that can be connected directly to the battery that Im missing??
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  #20  
Old 11-15-2003, 02:27 PM
moedip
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Did you try pulling ALL the fuses out at the same time and then checking? (the reverse of only pulling one fuse at a time and re-inserting). If it drops below 1 amp with all fuses out - try re-installing them one at a time until the current goes up. Another thing to try is to unplug all the relays. I would yank out all fuses and if the current is still 1 amp - then start pulling relays one at a time to see if it drops. If that doesn't work - I'm stumped.
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  #21  
Old 11-15-2003, 05:38 PM
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Are you connecting the meter to the battery before fully disconnecting the cable from the battery? If not you are going to see a higher reading than the actual draw because all of the control units that are powered with the key off are coming back on before going into a "sleep " mode. By connecting the meter leads before you totally disconect the battery cable keeps the circuit complete. Also be sure you have the trunk light bulb removed or turned off during this test.
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  #22  
Old 11-20-2003, 03:59 PM
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RPM, So your telling me to leave the battery connected to the cars leads and do what wirh the meter? Were do I put the black meter lead and the red meter lead? Thanks.
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  #23  
Old 11-20-2003, 04:11 PM
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I think he means;

1) Connect meter lead A to ground (where other end of battery cable attaches to frame, for instance...)

2) Touch meter lead B to negative battery post (sneak it under battery terminal).

3) Remove battery terminal completely from battery.

4) Take reading

The idea here is that the path to ground was never broken. Current used to flow through the ground cable, now it flows through the meter.

Hope that helps...
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  #24  
Old 11-21-2003, 08:46 PM
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satern,

Let me chime in by saying you should do exactly what RPM55 told you and CSNOW spelled out for you. You don't want to disconnect the battery negative cable before the two probes are in place. With the meter probes attached to the battery terminal and to the car's ground and the meter set to DC current your car's elctrical system will not be powered down momentarily when you disconnect the negative cable. That is what you want to do. If you don't understand what they said print out and have someone handy with basic electricity help guide you.

Good luck

FYI:
A multimeter acts like a closed circuit when measuring current and as an open circuit when selected to measure voltage.

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