Console window switch
 

The 88TE blew the window fuse (H) when my wife pressed on the drivers window switch. I pulled the console, replaced the fuse and moved the switch to the left rear position which then blew the other fuse (G). This led me to belive that the switch was bad. I took the old switch apart and cleaned it with no luck. Bought a new switch from Performance (same p/n) and it does the same thing. If I leave the switch out of the socket or use one of the three good switches in either circuit (rt. front/lft rear, lft front/rt. rear) no fuses fail and everything works.

Should I assume this new switch is bad out of the box or is there a possibility there is another problem (i.e. a short somewhere).

Any ideas would be helpful. The better half is tired of driving around with only two funtional windows.

Thanks,

Ed C.

Ed
The most common spot for shorted wires in the rear doors is inside the rubber conduits that lead from the B post into the doors (around the hinge area).

Gilly

Clarification: " ...use one of the three good switches in either circuit (rt. front/lft rear, lft front/rt. rear) no fuses fail and everything works."

Are you saying that if you move a switch to the driver's window switch location, they work? But the cleaned original and a new one fail?

Haasman

Yes, that is what is happening. The cleaned original switch and the new switch are causing the fuse(s) to fail no matter which position they are in.

I have also spliced (& tested) all new wires between the pillar and the door thinking the cracked insulation (all were cracked but one). I was convinced I isolated the problem to the switch but the failure of a new switch is the cause of my confusion.

Has there been a change in design of these switches? My next step will be to pick up another new switch to try.

Thanks for all your responses.

Ed C.

Hmmmm weird. Quick question: Are you using the correct rated fuse?

Double check the part numbers and make sure the connection (which is very obvious I agree) to the switch and wiring connector is correct.

Are there any signs of previous wiring work around the switch connector?

Another question: Have you tried the cleaned switch and/or the new one in another location? Such as the right-front? That would determine whether it is really switch related or not.

Keep us posted,

Haasman