Lose of Power 560 SEL - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

waylifeshouldbe · #16 11-19-2003, 10:06 PM

Thanks Q and others! I will check the relay tomorrow. I think it prudent to begin there (free) and progress toward replacing cap, rotor, coil. Car is running very nice. The past posts Q sent were quite informative in that my intermittant problem was very nearly described. Thanks again. I'll let you know!

waylifeshouldbe · #17 11-21-2003, 07:59 AM

I inspected the fuel pump relay yesterday. I was surprised to see that the cover had been "sealed" with some solvent and thus would require a bit to remove and thus reveal the circuit board. I saw a build date of "2000" and this relay was mfg in Hungary. Obviously this relay is not original. The A/C relay looked original (by comparision) with a build date of 1986 and a Bosch trademark. I did not try to take apart. I think I should replace the rotor and cap. Move on from there to coil and wires. The car is running fabulously with a a "shudder/miss" that last 2-3 seconds on 3 occassions over the last 125 miles. What do you think? Prudent? Or should I continue to suspect the relay? Thanks!

waylifeshouldbe · #18 11-25-2003, 03:42 PM

Installed a new cap and rotor today. Will post results as to whether this cures my intermittant issue regarding "miss/power loss". Have driven car approx 900 miles and experienced this anamoly about 12 times. When it happens, it seems it will exhibit this behavior 2-3 times over a few miles and then be normal for the next few days. I thought I'd proceed with cap, rotor then coil, then wires. Hopefully issue will be resolved before I run out of easy to replace items. I did inspect fuel relay per all of your fine advice. The relay has a build date of 2000 and shows made in Hungary. Additionaly, the fuel relay is sealed with some transparent "caulk-like" substance making me think twice about prying open. Might have to though following results of "plan A". Thanks to all for your continued help!

waylifeshouldbe · #19 11-28-2003, 12:58 PM

Following installation of a new cap and rotor car "shuddered/nearly stalled" 25 miles later. Checking AllData, it was suggested to check the EZK ignition module. Although AllData has a pic of this components location, it is very poor. Can anyone tell me where exactly this module is and what is looks like?

mhingram · #20 11-28-2003, 04:14 PM

front left fender wall. It has three plugs and a vacuum line going into it is all black. These are pretty hardy so i would be surprised if it is this but new they are pricey i would look for a used one for around 100 bucks. Have you had the coil checked out yet.
m

waylifeshouldbe · #21 11-28-2003, 05:10 PM

Thanks for replying! No I have not had the coil checked. Is it an easy request to make of NAPA? That is bring them the coil and ask for a check? I'll call them tomorrow. I'll clean the ignition module as instructed per alldata. I just got back from a 2 hour each way trip and don't you know the car ran outstanding. What a nice highway ride. I can't wait to spring so I can change the rear cells. My mechanic told me I should consider the front "castor" joints? he says they are a bit worn. What other name would these be? Happy Thanksgiving.

waylifeshouldbe · #22 12-10-2003, 05:03 PM

I've now replaced cap, rotor, and yesterday the coil. After replacing coil, I started car. Ran fine and sounded wonderful. This morning (12 hours later), car cranked but would not start. I inspected the previous nights work. Jiggled around the coil connections, found all to be correct. Tried car again - started right up. ???? Drove to work and 5 miles into ride car displayed the ocassional issue - tack went to zero for 2-3 seconds, shuddered a bit, back to correct RPMs and no issues for the remainder of the ride. Has this latest episode given anyone a new idea as to the cause of my intermittant power loss? I going to inspect very carefully all wiring leading into/out of coil. Should I replace the original wires next? Factory wires or, as someone suggested Magnecor? Thanks!!!

mhingram · #23 12-10-2003, 05:09 PM

woody, It does sound like a loose connection somewhere sorry the coil did not help. Kinda weird that messing with the wires and she would start again. the rpm sensor will cause the engine to die/not start but, I hope it is not that cause that is not easy to fix. It is the upper plug going into the ezl. Check to see if it is loose or damaged near the ezl. It runs into the tranny as the pickup is of the fly wheel. Not sure if there is a better way to check it. anyone?
m

waylifeshouldbe · #24 12-11-2003, 10:03 AM

Thanks -

I'll check the connections and insure good contact. I'll look again at the ezl. I find it curious that my replacing the coil resulted in the very exact symptoms at start-up that I've been experiencing while driving over the past couple months. I am hopeful that I am at least in the right area. I want to at least inspect each wire and vacuum line so as to clean and confirm condition. I am compelled to replace the wires only if because they are original and after 104K and 15 years figure they don't owe me anything. Anyone have an opinion in using the Magnecor 8mm? They are under $100. Should I stick with OE?

#25 12-11-2003, 10:31 AM

Following this thread - Woody - when you said you changed the coil, cap and rotor and the next morning the car wouldn't start - cranked but no fire - then on second try it started instantly - then it exhibited the same problem while driving. What about this scenario - an ignition switch on the way out? When your car acts up while driving - does it happen after hitting a bump? Next time it acts up - try hitting the switch and the column and see if it makes a difference. If the switch is going defective - loss of 12 volts to the ignition system can cause the symptoms - maybe through the ignition switch. Gremlins can be a pain to troubleshoot but easy to fix when found. The more I think about your symptoms the more I think the switch could be a possibility. Worth a shot.
Morris

mhingram · #26 12-11-2003, 10:36 AM

woody I used the 8mm with beru connectors they are very nice and I have been very happy with them. I think Moedip has a point it seems that there is a connection issue somewhere. If it functions so well rthen fails so completely. THer must be a loose connection somewhere. I hope you find it please keep us informed on this as it is a deveilishly hard thing to find these.
m

tower · #27 12-11-2003, 11:31 AM

I know its not a benz, but I went through the same issues twice on two different volvos. The first one was the hall effect sensor in the distributor. Its signal feed the cylinder firing (timing) through a power amplifier, through the coil, but it also provided the signal for the tach. Sympton of seeing the tach drop to 0 rpm when cruising on the highway (ie no power then) confirmed it.

The other rpm sensor went out but just gave hard starts when hot.

I don't know if this experience helps, but $0.02 anyways.

Ron

waylifeshouldbe · #28 12-11-2003, 06:23 PM

Thanks folks for your interest - it truly is appreciated. As far as the ignition is concerned - the symptons did not present themselves under any rough/bump scenario. Under load, reduced acceleration, cruise, it has happened. I'll try to remember toying with the switch next time though to confirm. My changing the coil may be a hint. The car has never exhibited a "hard-to-start" problem - until 12 hours after coil changeover. I have replaced everything exactly as before. I inspected the voltage regulator and the brushes look as if new. The hall effect idea is a good one. I had one go on a V8 Volvo (302 Ford) I owned. But when that happened it just flat out died and could not restart. For those reasons I had not thought to go there. Tonight I should find some time to inspect. Its crazy I tell you! I'll be ordering the Magnecor wires in a few days for grins. Again thanks for following and certainly appreciate any new ideas. You can count on my keeping you informed!

#29 12-12-2003, 09:18 AM

Woody - the hall effect sensor in the distributor could give the symptoms. In my Olds it moves in the distributor so the common fault is frayed wires that let go - then the car won't run at all. Check your wires at the hall sensor and if they appear normal - remove it and hook it up to an ohmeter and try moving it around and heating it up and cooling it down and see if the ohmage changes dramatically while testing. Only other way to eliminate it as a culprit with the very intermittent symptoms is to replace it on spec. Good luck - hope you find it - whatever it is we will all want to know if it ever happens to us!

cc260E · #30 12-12-2003, 11:31 AM

waylifeshouldbe,

I experienced all what you described in the long post and replies.

I changed along list of items on my 260E, EU 1988, including resoldering of Fuel pump relay (see my post "loss of power while running).
I am chasing for the default a long time. I am not yet there because the problem occurs only when driving and randomly.

The only thing I wish I could have tried is to measure fuel pressure while driving.

Good luck