Just changed the motor mounts on the 190E ('87 2.3 8v).

I believe this repair is similar to on a 124 series as well, although I have not checked.

Remarkably not too bad a job. The telltale indication of bad motor mounts was very little room between the upper edge of the lower cross member and the lower portion of the engine, less than an inch. Additionally a sagging exhaust system indicates the engine is riding too low and I seemed to get a weird vibration from the engine especially at idle.

Neither of the mounts were torn or ripped, but the both old mounts over an inch less in total height compared to new replacements.

To do this job, one needs to jack up the front of the car and ideally put it on two jack stands. You SHOULD do one side at a time. After the front end is raised, use a floor jack with a block of wood and gently position under the oil pan. Use a fairly large piece of wood for max surface area. You are not going to lift the motor more than an inch or two. Go slowly and don’t over do it.

Each motor mount is held in place at the top by a 17mm bolt and at the bottom by a 8mm Allen bolt. The right side is easy to do, not more than about 10 minutes max. Remove the upper 17mm bolt and take its heat shield with it. Go to the bottom of the car and remove the 8mm Allen bolt from underneath. Access is through a round hole in the subframe.

Now gently lift the engine just enough to get the motor mount out. It is obvious how they go in, but for orientation, the engine motor mount arm has a small section cut that matches a small notch on the top of the motor mount.

I installed the lower Allen bolt first, loosely so there’s some wiggle room. Went to the top and installed the 17mm bolt with the heat shield. Once both bolts were started, I gently lower the engine onto the new mount. I then I tightened both the top and the bottom bolts.

At this point life was good and I was going to knock the left one off before dinner ….. wrong! The driver’s side engine mount is MUCH more challenging, but actually not too bad. After trying multiple universal joints and ratchet extensions, it became obvious if I removed the coil that mounted on the inner fender, it would create just enough room to get my arm and a ratchet on the upper 17mm bolt. I should point out that the ratchet I use has a swivel arm that greatly helps pulling in awkward situations such as this. If you don’t have one, put it on your Holiday gift list! (Mine has a 10” length arm).

After successfully getting the upper bolt off, the bottom Allen comes out just like the right side. To get the old mount out, one has to pull it out from the bottom. The new one goes in the way the old one came out. Again, make sure the notch matches the ridge on the engine mount before starting to snug up the bolts.

Install your bolts, tighten and then remount the coil to the inner fender wall.

I noticed the engine idled a bit smoother and the exhaust is now back up under the car the way it is supposed to.

Compared to other cars and how their motor mounts are replaced, this was a piece of cake. Mercedes was definitely thinking about service on these.

Haasman

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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

Great Article Hassman, as always I should metnion.

I have a question however, I know for a fact that on my 190E one of the bottom bolts for the passanger side engien mount is stripped. Do the new engine mounts come with the bolts? If so, I might very well replace them come Christmas when I will be fixing the timing chain tensioner rail. if not, I will drill out the stipped bolt and get a new one from the dealer.

xp

__________________
1985 190E 2.3L - a constant project.

xp

Good to hear from you. I don't know if the new mounts come with the bolts are not, but they are common size and readily available.

The lower passenger side allen is stripped? Some had suggested using valve lapping compound on the end of an allen to cinch-up loose or worn allen head bolts. I would guess a good amount of upward pressure holding the allen into the bolt head would also help.

Haasman

__________________
'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)

Thanx for the tip hassman, I will tackle that blot soon enough, it's not the end of the world since I can still undo the one on the top to get at the engine, but if I can, I'll replace the motor mounts at the same time.

xp

__________________
1985 190E 2.3L - a constant project.

This was a good writeup and I just wanted to add to it with my experience on my 1993 190E 2.3L.

I replaced my mounts with some mounts from the partsbin. I got worried when I saw they were "Made in China", but went ahead and installed them anyway. Things were fine for a couple of months, then the rough idle returned, maybe even worse than before. After reading lots of posts, I decided to spend $180 for the OEM Mercedes mounts.

While they looked very similar, I installed them and now the idle is totally smooth, just like new. I saw some evidence of leakage on the mounts that were only 3 months old.

When it comes to motor mounts, only go to the dealer.

I just finnished replacing the motor mounts on my 190E and I had much difficulty with the driver's side mount. After trying everything imaginable without success to reach and loosen the top bolt, I was finally able to loosen it with a long 3/8" extension through an opening in the manifold.

81 190E 2.6L 109K miles. I started on my passenger side last night and got pissed. The manifold makes it impossible to get a socket on the 17mm on top. I used a box end and pried it and hit it with a hammer and no go. I was double pissed in that I thought ahead and sprayed penetrating lube on it hours before I even started the process. I can't imagine how much torque its gonna take to free it or how I am gonna apply it. This kind of thing makes me crazy. What should have been a straight forward 20 minute job has now caused me considerable aggravation. At this rate, if the passenger side doesn anything to quell the vibration I will not be touching the driver side.

I also broke a socket on the lower nut of the driver rear shock. This is an AZ car with no rust.

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1981 300TD
2005 C55
2004 E500
1999 ML430
1992 400E
1998 C43
2001 SL500
1988 300SEL
1986 190E 16V
1991 190E 2.6

Douge, look at my message above yours. I think you're talking about the driver's side. Anyway, if you scrutinze your intake manifold, you'll find an opening through the linkage where you can stick a 24'' 3/8'' extension. I had to place the socket on the bolt from underneeth and then plug the extenion onto the socket. I used a breaker bar to crack the bolt. Good luck.

Thanks for the note, but it is actually the passenger side. After sleeping on it, I have the feeling that the compressed mount is allowing the motor to put a lot of lateral pressure on the bolt. I am going to try jacking the motor up to relieve the bolt and see how that works.

__________________
1981 300TD
2005 C55
2004 E500
1999 ML430
1992 400E
1998 C43
2001 SL500
1988 300SEL
1986 190E 16V
1991 190E 2.6

Not coming off. POS I thought about loosening the allen bolt but diminishing return is setting in. To bad, very nice car.

__________________
1981 300TD
2005 C55
2004 E500
1999 ML430
1992 400E
1998 C43
2001 SL500
1988 300SEL
1986 190E 16V
1991 190E 2.6