124 300CE rear bearings
 

Previously posted but I didn't get a good answer so I thought I would post it again as it is going in the shop this Friday 11-21-03. I have tried another set of tires and that didn't make any difference. It actually makes a lot less noise when I go around a hard right turn. Original question:
One or both of my rear wheel bearings on my 92 300CE are getting pretty noisy and I should change them soon. I live 90 miles from any shop that has the MB tools to do this job so I would like to have a local shop do it. I have read numerous post on this subject and I am still confused about exactly how the bearings should be removed and replaced in the hub carrier. I have worked on my own cars for the past 40+ years and have done a lot of my own work on several MBs. I plan on having the shop completely remove the hub carriers so that the bearings can be pressed out and back in at a local machine shop (I have 2 complete bearing kits). I would like to avoid some of the mistakes I read about in some of the posts on RR of these bearings. If anyone has detailed instructions on how to do this, could you please email them to me at bergsma@charter.net or fax them to Craig at 1- 541-298-0888. Thanks

I replaced my rear bearings on my 92 300sd. After you remove all the brake components, the emergency brake shoes are not fun! you may have to disconnect the brake cable from above the drive shaft. Next you remove the half shaft bolt at the hub carrier. After that disconnect all 5 strut arms from the carrier and it should slide right off the half shaft. you should not have a problem getting the carrier to slide off the shaft gear. I found the hardest problem was the half shaft bolt, it is crimped and requires a very big socket wrench, be sure that it fits perfectly and tight as to not strip it.
The hub carrier should be taken to a shop and have the new bearings pressed in. I went and bought a chilton on a 190E and surprisingly the suspension is pretty much the same on a 140 chassis, just bigger. I remember when mine went bad, it was like a humming noise all over the rear of the car, I got new tires too! it was just the drivers side, but I replaced both. It is not an easy job, but the dealer wanted 1900 per wheel, I spent 260 in parts. I also replaced a lot of bushings down there that were worn on the lower control arm and the brake shoes. When you put it back together make sure all the correct bolts are put back the right way with the locking washers. I moved the strut arms out of the way of the carrier and put the nut and bolt back in the arm, so that when I put it back together it was there like it was supposed to be. Then go have a 4 wheel alignment. The rear suspension on these cars is an engineering masterpiece, to handle all that weight and move up and down keeping the car level and on track, I appreciate MB's a lot more after tearing one apart! Good Luck
Brian

124 300CE Rear End Noise Solved
 

To all - found the problem - left side outer race on hub bearing was burnt yellow/bronze with crazing on the inner race. It didn't look too bad but it sure made a lot of noise. The right side had some rust showing but it was just coming from the axle shaft, the bearing was OK. The local Napa machine shop was able to press the old ones out (hubs removed) and put the new ones in with no problem. Be sure to tell the shop to support the bearing so they are not pressing the balls against the races and make sure the brake backing plate is in place before pressing the axle carrier in. Craig
PS - I still have a 92 300CE differential (104 motor) 3.06 ratio for sale on ebay and also a set of New OEM 124 300E axles (103 motor). Word of WARNING: don't buy axles rebuilt by ARI. the ones a bought leaked in the 1st 100 miles and now I have to go through the hastle of sending them back, getting my old cores back and trying to get some money out of them for the waisted labor!