Peter, that's what I mean. Folks get worked up about the precision with which they set the pointer at the tight end, but not as much about how they set the pointer at the loose end. Just an observation.

Sixto
95 S420
91 300SE
87 300SDL
83 300SD

I'm sure I will figure this tensioner stuff out the first time I try to put the belt on.

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Jim

If you have the time, do you think you could take a picture of the new tensioner alongside the old? It might be useful for others to be able to see the position of the idler wheel on a new tensioner versus a worn one.

Gary

Consider it done Gary. I will get it either today or tomorrow.

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Jim

Imagine my frustration after replacing my water pump only to find that the tensioner was stripped!! I was about ready to burn this damn thing!!

I was told to get a new tensioner when I needed to replace the water pump on the TE. Sure enough, the rubber was frayed, I'd have needed one if I hadn't gotten the new one.

With the new visco clutch, this was a $600 water pump....

Good news is that it works perfectly now.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Check it out.
Thanks for the suggestion of getting the shot Phalcon.

Once I put the belt it was obvious how it works - thanks everyone.

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Jim

The pointer can be useful, but it's position by no means indicates the belt tension is correct. Been there.

Common sense/experience are the best indicators of correct belt tension.

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Mike Murrell
1991 300-SEL - Model 126
M103 - SOHC
"Fräulein"