I printed the instructions for replacing the valve gasket (from an older post) out already, but thanks anyway. I'm probably going to replace it this week, I'll post my results here. I only hope this solves the problem, b/c the timing chain cover, or at least the front of the engine seems to be leaking too, and this seems like a more difficult item to replace or diagnose (I'm a bit of a novice, but learning quite a bit from forum).

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headrivenoise... listen.

In reply to Dirtysocks question. A really bad timing chain will make noise beyond startup, but the real key to catching it early is noise only at start-up when the oil has drained and the tensioner is relaxed. When a chain has wear then you get this start-up noise and it goes away in 2-3 seconds. If you are doubtful, ask an MB Tech about this. I went through this on a M119 engine.

Thanks, lylesmet, I will look into it. I was thinking while I am under the hood I could replace the black shock piece that parts shop calls a belt tension dampener. It rattles like heck when running. Is this also a DIY job? What is the downside of not replacing this rattling item (other than noise)? As always, any feedback is greatly appreciated.

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headrivenoise... listen.

The downside of a timing chain failure is a valve hitting a piston: bent valves, damaged piston, maybe camshaft and anything in the way of the chain. Thats why I mentioned it. The name "death rattle' isn't a joke; you are looking at a rebuild of the engine. Thats why you check to make sure it isn't a chain problem; its the very definition of a catastrophic failure.

what exactly would I be listening for if timing chain is bad? As best as you could descibe sounds with words, lylesmet. Should I just put a screwdriver up to chain ocver with my ear on it?

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headrivenoise... listen.

Check the stretch, its easy and it will tell you if the chains is bad.

Do a search for instructions, the only thing that varies is the location of the marks on the cam and cam tower. Align them, then not the position of the balancer -- read the degree mark.

More than 8 degrees is a bad chain.

Chain tensioner can be checked by pulling the valve cover with the engine warm and just shut off (right side on V engines) and pushing the tensioner rail (the one that pivots on the bottom) back. If it goes easily, it's shot. If you have to push hard to get it to move, and it moves slowly, it's fine.

Very long chain and/or bad tensioner will cause the chain to slap on the slack (right hand) side, eventually it will clank on the head or cam cover. You won't mistake that for anything except a bad rod.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!