Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help

Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-27-2003, 05:41 PM
Johnson Chan's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 229
How to paint engine compartment peices

Hello everyone,

You know when you get a rebuilt engine or buy a new car, the long block sometimes is a nice shinny black color and it lasts a long time. How do they do that?!?!

In the past, i have tried to use high temperature enamal paint from walmart and it lasts only a couple months and starts to fade or come off. So i never done it again. I did NOT use clearcoat, was that my problem?

Should i use black primer, then black enamal paint, then clearcoat? anyway to speed up the curing process or make it more durable? Thanks in advance.
Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2003, 06:18 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ontario
Posts: 37
You can take a look at this page, hope it helps.
Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2003, 08:33 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: South Eastern, MA
Posts: 1,743
Better quality paints make a big difference. Check out this is where the resto shops go to get their paints.

Good luck and show us some good before and afters!

02 C32 AMG

92 500E
84 190E 2.3 5 Spd
Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2003, 09:38 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 3,726
They may be powder coated, or if paint are probably catalyzed. Air dryed spray cans are never going to be that durable. But even with the greatest paint in the world surface preparation is everything. Automotive paint stores are usually a good source of advice for such things.
Reply With Quote
Old 11-28-2003, 08:41 AM
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NB Canada
Posts: 1,173
deanyel is right about preparation. Speaking from experience, I built a GM 350 from the block up for my streetrod. I had the block hot-dipped, then did lots of grinding on the surfaces that show. This was followed with a liberal dose of metal prep, then high-build primer, sanding, and finally Dupont Centari. This is a common 3 part catalyzed automotive paint. You could go with base/clear, but that would be silly on an engine blok, IMO. And don't let anyone tell you that the heat will ruin the paint, since if your block gets hot enough to burn off the paint (assuming it's been properly applied and the surface correctly preped), you have other problems. Expect some colour changes around the exhaust manifolds, though. To do this yourself, engine in car, I'd expect that getting off all the surface contaminants would be a real challenge. And, unless you have a buddy in the business, there's a lot of money to spend on the paint itself, because the reducers and activators don't come in small containers, even though you could get a pint of paint to do the job..
1986 560SL
2002 Toyota Camry
1993 Lexus
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2003, 04:51 AM
Johnson Chan's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 229
Hello Everyone and thank you for the reply. Just to clarify, i did not mean i was going to repaint the long block, i was just using them as an example of durability in engine paint.

I have a couple small nick nack peices I want to paint. I took the parts off the car and used paint remover and took it down all the way to the metal/aluminum.

I used black shinny enamal paint and put a couple layers. Then i used the high temperature clear coat paint. I am hoping that will the clear coat high temp paint, that it will help make it last longer.

I dont want to use Gunk foamy engine brite degreaser on my engine someday only to find the paint coming off, lol.

Question: will putting the small pieces in my oven help speed up the drying/curing time? I know paint shops have those big booths to help speed up drying time, since i have small engine peices, maybe i can use my home oven for this purpse
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2003, 07:17 AM
wbain5280's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Northern Va.
Posts: 3,386
It's not a good idea to use your oven. You don't want any residual chemicals getting in your food, plus you would stink up your house.


Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL


Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
Reply With Quote
Old 11-29-2003, 08:59 PM
haasman's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 3,097
To accelerate drying of small painted engine parts, use a hair dryer. Just be sure you do this in a well ventilated area, and when you wife isn't home!

Watch getting the heat too concentrated in one area. Its a bummer when you have to start over...... don't ask.

'03 E320 Wagon-Sold
'95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex
'93 190E 2.6-Wrecked
'91 300E-Went to Ex
'65 911 Coupe (#302580)
Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2003, 05:55 AM
Johnson Chan's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 229
Ok, another quick question. The paint I am using is "high temperature enamal". Is it mandatory that I use a primer? Its not like I am going to be sanding these small peices or anything, and the paint appears to be sticking. So can i just skip the priming process?
Reply With Quote


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:40 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page