bolt removal
 

The head of a bolt attaching the header heat deflector on a 450 wrenched off. I attempted to drill it out and probably worsened the matter. How can this headless bolted be backed out?

Everyone should have one of these!

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The extractor at the above link will only work if it's a mild steel bolt. Even then, if it's in there tight enough to break the head off the bolt, why would a more brittle pice of steel 1/3 the diameter solve the problem? If it is hardened at all, you'll never get a hand drill far enough into it to do any good and you'll probably round out the area beside the bolt as that's where the drill willl want to go. Or the extractor will break off in the hole and you'll never drill that. In my experience, the extractors cause more problems than they solve (net). Do you have any bolt sticking up or did it break off flush or below? What's around it? Any plastic parts or hoses or stuff that a torch would damage? Do you have a pic? Post some more details and I may be able to suggest a few things...

While there are various tools for this, my experience is that broken bolts theaded into an exhaust header or manifold are probably not going to give way to any extractor, particularly in the case of small fasteners.

Probably easier to drill and tap one size larger, if possible.

The Alden Drill-outs would probably offer up your best chance, but do not expect too much in this case.

bolt removal
 

The bolt broke off clean with no stub. The location would not permit use of a torch. Thanks

Re: bolt removal
 

Do you mean the area can tolerate zero heat? At this point, your only option really is to drill it out. If it is possible to heat what is left of the bolt red hot a couple of times and let it air cool (even if it's just a small butane torch), you will remove the temper and thus be more able to drill it out. If you are unable to get any heat to it at all you should take it to a machine shop and see if they can get it out for you. That's all I know to suggest.

Oh, I forgot to mention;

Sometimes if you drill it out with a left-hand bit, it will break loose during the drilling (before you get all the way through). Less drilling this way. Use largest bit that will not damage thread. If this works, you will not have to go oversize.

Permatex copper antiseize may prevent the next fastener from breaking, though I try to switch these sorts of things to stainless if I can get a match.
Corrosion is accelerated dramatically at these temperatures. Mix that with our roadsalt, and the heads on these fasteners often dissolve away.

I've used a Dremmel tool with a chain saw sharpening stone, (its a small, skinny, long stone,) sometimes several, and carefully grind out the bold.

MP,

Is the broken bolt in the head? If so you are basically screwed unless you can find a 6" mechanic to crawl down in there. I assume that this in on your slc and if it is like mine there isn't room to change your mind along side the exhaust manifild. This is one of those 'might as well' situations that can cost you big bucks. If you have to take off the head, which won't be cheap even in you do most of the work yourself, then you 'might as well' do a valve job on it, in which case you really should do both heads. Since you will have both heads off you "might as well" do the timing chain. I "might as welled" myself into a $1,500 overhaul on my Diesel truck when a $20 oil sending unit wourld have solved the problem. Be careful.

In general I do all my own work but if there is little room to work in let a pro do it ,for one thing they will have machine shop quality tools plus years of doing just this type thing..............
William Rogers..................

In cases like these it is not the amount or quality of tools available but simple access that dictates how the job is done. Some times it is easier to pull the engine than it is to spend a lot of $50 hours trying to do a 10- cent job in place.

I was a partner in a machine shop for ten years and can tell you with out a dought that a professional easy out is a whole different tool than one from the hardware store.A pro in a good shop will have an angel head drill the best bits and probably a simple creative way to heat the broken bolt while shielding any flameble parts.Were it my car before pulling an engine I sure would have someone with experience look at it .Pulling an engine usally dose not come as a free bonus for extracting a broken bolt..........


Kip I just looked at your profile and see that you have done a lot of things as have I (Feb.1941)
and I would try everthing I could think of but pull the engine, lift it up off its mounts,remove other parts,ect.I have even cut holes in body panels,firewalls floorboards you name it to get at what looks like an unreachable part.................
William Rogers...........

bolt removal
 

Thanks to all for the input. Results to follow.....