Windows won't go down
 

Hello All,

I can't get my rear windows to go down. I have changed the window regulator for both left and rigth rear passenger sides but no dice. I tried to see if the window buttons worked and still no...anyone have any suggestions.

Thanks

Is this a Chevy or a Ford?

Sorry about that folks....I must have been half asleep when I typed my problem out. Anyways, I have a 1986 300E W124 and my rear windows won't go down. My fronts work but I can't get the rear windows to work. The buttons on the shifter console won't work and neither will the buttons on the left and right rear doors. Any suggestions would help.

thanks again
brabusmb5

First verify whether it is the electricity from the switches or something else. You have enabled the child-lockout switch on the center console?

Apply a direct source to one of the window motors, at the door. If the motors work with this, then most likely it could be the wiring in the door. It has been reported that the wires that run through the flexible conduit break. I believe you can pull it off at the door jam to check them.

Keep us posted,

Haasman

You HAVE checked the fuses right? Replace them even if they look ok.

Quote from Haasman:
"It has been reported that the wires that run through the flexible conduit break. I believe you can pull it off at the door jam to check them."
I could not agree more. About 6 months ago my rear passenger window stopped working out of the blue, I checked the wires at the conduit and 'voila' wire broken, fixed problem.
About a month ago, my drivers side rear window stopped working, I haven't gotten around to check it yet, the fuses look good, I am pretty sure it is the wire.

Thanks for the reply folks....I checked to see if the wires were the problem and everything seems intact. I played around with putting the switches from the two front windows(working windows) into the rears and still doesn't work. I would like to try putting power straight to the door but I am quite a novice with electrical work. Can someone tell me a safe and sure way to check if I am getting power to the window regulators. If I bypass and find out that the window works that way, then there is something definitely wrong with the distribution of power from the switches to the regulator. Could there be any relays that I can check?

Thanks again folks. I'm determined to get my windows working back to normal. I can't help but cringe whenever I have someone sitting at the backseat and they try to open my windows to no avail. Hope no one gets carsick....What a mess that might be!!!


BrabusMB5
1986 300E

Get a length of two conductor wire .... like lamp cord, speaker wire etc. Each end will have two wires: Lets say + and -

You want to attach a + and - to the battery (one on each battery terminal)

At the other end of the lamp cord you will have two wires + and -

Since lights, motors etc all take at least a + and - to complete a circuit this is what you will use to to try and make the window motor run.

Ideally attach aligator clips on the ends. Disconnect the connector going to the window motor, or if there is a electrical connection block mounted to the door, so much the better.

Positive is almost ALWAYS associated with + and brown or black with -

Run the wire/cord from the car battery to the window motor you are trying to test.

Haasman

If NEITHER rear window will go down, I would suspect the cutoff switch that intentionally disables these windows so small children who stick their heads out the windows will not be harmed.

The current from both windows is routed thru this switch, which could be defective or somehow jammed in a closed state.

If so, I would think applying power to the leads inside the door will cause them to operate. But I'd check the disable switch first. On my cars, it has a small logo of a child on it.

Good luck!

Hello again to all...

Well I would like to thank those who posted...it helped. I was able to fix the problem. First I went ahead and replaced the Lockout switch on the console (bought it at the dealer for $12). I really thought this wasn't the culprit but I replaced anyway. I
started with the rear right passenger window and opened the door panel. Upon investigating all the wires, I realized that the the green and black wires that led to the plastic connector to the switch was not installed. So I put the green and black to the connector and "voila" it worked.
This morning I started on the rear left passenger window. I tried to see if the same problem that I had for the other window was causing the failure here. All wires were in the right place. OK. I moved to inspect the the wires at every possible connection. As I inspected the wires at the door jamb. I realized that there was a break on the blue wire. I didn't notice this at first because the break was underneath. I had to pull the wire right out of the jamb. I stripped the wires and connected them to see if the windows worked and , you guessed it "voila again" windows went up and down. I plan on soldering the wires together before putting everything back to order.

I did it....Nobody's gonna be chucking in the back of my car....well not anytime soon at least.

Thanks alot for all the input. You guys are great. I certainly have saved plenty of $$$ by doing this myself. I couldn't imagine what my mechanic would've charged for this.

Million thanks again and Happy Holidays to all!!!!!


BrabusMB5
1986 300E:)

brabusmb5

Good job! It truly is satisfying to have done these repairs yourself.

With regards to mending the broken wire, if space and wire lengths allow, try using heat shrink tubing over the junction of the two pieces.

Remember to slide the heat shrink tubing on BEFORE joining the wires. You will need to supply a source of heat such as a match or lighter, a flame source. Don't linger the flame at any one spot. Make sure you apply the heat all over (top, sides, bottom)

I recommend soldering the two wires.

Haasman