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  #1  
Old 12-09-2003, 01:19 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 25
Lurker Says Thanks

After using this forum to gather details and instructions about changing a distr cap and rotor, I was able to quickly run through it with minimal scraped knuckles and confusion.

While I have always worked on my own cars and motorcycles including complete motor/trans rebuild, etc I was still aprehensive when I saw where the distr was on the 300. The 300 SE runs much better now. I also changed out the air filter and a broke vacuum line along the way. Don't ask how it got broke. Let's just say I will be replacing all vaccum lines soon as they are brittle as can be. Biggest fear now is wondering how brittle the wiring is going to be. Oh well I have rewired a car or two too so here I come.

Tomorrow, is oil and filter time and I have even used the instructions for building a home made one using my shop vac.
Not crazy about the spin off perched in back and facing downwaards but after reading messages here feel I can execute with little mess. It wil beat the cost of the local mech doing it I am sure.


Thanks again,

Tony P
Austin, Texas
1989 300 SE
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Old 12-09-2003, 12:16 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Southern California
Posts: 2,036
Re: Lurker Says Thanks

Quote:


Not crazy about the spin off perched in back and facing downwaards but after reading messages here feel I can execute with little mess. It wil beat the cost of the local mech doing it I am sure.
Before you open the oil drain plug make sure you have a proper strap or cap wrench and loosen the filter a quarter turn to make sure you can get it off. Then puncture it with a center punch or big nail. This will allow it to drain.

Remove the drain plug and let the oil drain from the pan. If you don't have a new copper ring, you can dress the existing one on some 220-400 paper on a flat surface to remove the galling marks and reuse it.

Once the oil is completely drained - say ten minutes - remove the filter. Wrap a rag or two around the filter base, but there should be minimal spillage.

Once most of the oil is drained I jack up the right rear of my 190, which lowers the drain hole so that last few ounces of dirty oil drains out.

Duke
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  #3  
Old 12-09-2003, 03:44 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Southern California, U.S.A.
Posts: 8,508
Re: Lurker Says Thanks

Quote:
Originally posted by tpynes
Biggest fear now is wondering how brittle the wiring is going to be. Oh well I have rewired a car or two too so here I come.


Tony P
Austin, Texas
1989 300 SE
The engine wiring harness problem, which I think you are referring to, is limited to M104 engines from 1993-1995.

Yours is an M103 engine, which never had a problem with engine wiring harnesses.
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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".
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