I need to change the fuse for the relay switch on a Euro model. I can't seem to find anything that looks like the picture in the books. Can I please get some help here.
Thanks, Loretta |
Seems that you have a 115 chassis, if I remember correctly. What kind of relay switch fuse are you looking for? What system are you working on?
|
I can't find the glowplug relay switch so I can change the fuse.
|
This whole thread seems like deja vu.
In prior posts it was established that you have a 115.117 diesel. They have no fuseor relay. The only glow switch in the system is the one you pull to start. |
Loretta,
Steve is correct. Pull the starter switch half-way until it clicks, then pull against the resistance about 1/4 inch further out. Hold this position for about 10 sec. and you will see the glow indicator on the dash glowing brightly. Then pull the starter all the way out. When the car starts, release the switch back to the half-way mark and drive away.... :) There are no relays or fuses in this mechanism. If it is not glowing, you have a wiring problem, possibly a broken wire to the glow-indicator, but if this were the case, the car should not start because the circuit would be broken. Most likely you are just not holding the starter switch out far enough or long enough. Does the car take forever to start, blow smoke, and idle poorly after setting a while? If so, this is the problem.... ------------------ William 76 240D - 550K miles 78 300D - 200K+ miles |
I'm really sorry guys but I do need help. I know this is deja vu Steve. And I apologize.
My car is a 1976 115 117 Euro model 240D. I put the insulator on and the car is still not starting. Ok so I don't have a fuse for a relay switch. I did find I have one large fuse box and three small ones. I replaced all fuses. The car does turnover but does not start.....What can I try next? I tried what you suggested before. Pulling the starter out and then holding it for 20 seconds. Then pulling it all the way out to start. The motor is still not catching. When the motor is turning the instrument panel lights are bright. I have noticed dark smoke coming out when you are trying to start it. I've also noticed a thin clear fluid around the injector's. Any advise you can give me will be appreciated guys. Thanks, Loretta |
Do you still think this is a wiring problem? The glow-indicator does not light up. I've never seen it light. I was told it did. It did always start right up without glowing until I lose the insulator. After I changed the glowplugs. The car does not idle poorly.
From the beginning when starting this car since I could not see the glowing. I've always pulled out the starter switch. I then count to 10 and pull it all the way out and it has started right up no problems. It runs better now than it did when I first got it. The engine just won't catch. It won't start unless I use the diesel starting spray. That's why I've let the car sit. I didn't want to cause anymore problems. I have noticed that when on the freeway sometimes if you look back you may see a little smoke every now and then. It has more power than it did before. It was really sluggist going up the freeway ramp at times. But, I don't have that problem anymore. I hope this info helps. I really need help. Thanking you in advance. Loretta |
I am not sure you understand the glow position. Let me describe the four positions of the fuel shut-off/glow switch.
The first position is off; with the knob pushed all the way in. The second position is the run position. This is the position the knob takes after you have pulled it and released it. The third is the glow position. This position can not be kept without physically holding the knob against the first spring. The best way to tell if this position is engaged is to watch the lights on the dash. When the switch is engaged and the glow is functioning the dash warning lights will dim from the load of the operating glow system (same as four sets of headlights). The fourth position is start. It is a small move against the last spring to pull the knob all the way to the start position. The glow indicator is not a light it is a heating element. The 190Db I drove for 5 years had an element that was hard to see and I just would put my thumb over the grill and start when I could feel the heat (shortly before it would burn me). If you have a glow system that works properly it should glow that element bright red if you hold it long enough. The curved bars between the glow plugs will also glow red if the system is working and held long enough. ------------------ Steve Brotherton Owner 24 bay BSC Bosch Master, ASE master L1 26 years MB technician |
Steve it sounds like you're correct. I'm use to the newer car. And they are nothing like my Bessie. You don't have that fuel switch. I will try what you suggested and see if that works.
Thanks for your patience Steve. Loretta |
Steve, I tried what you suggested. The still can't get that red glow and it's still not starting.....
Steve maybe to give you some background. I purchased this car several months ago from a private party. This car had set up several years in storage. The lady at the storage told me when she started it sometimes it would glow red but other times you could barely see it without her cupping one of her hands by it. When I purchased my dad started it and it did light up briefly. I have never seen it turn red at all. But, it would start right up. The alternator belt broke. My dad and I changed it and I changed the glow plugs. The car has not started by itself since. Do you have any other suggestions? Thanks again Loretta |
The glow plugs are a simple necessary circuit.
Its sounds like it is an open circuit now. When replacing the glow plugs care has to be mantained to keep the buss bars and insulators mounted properly. A short to ground before the number one plug will cause a breif current surge which will burn a new plug in an instant. You need either professional help (I would charge $30 to diagnose this simple system and then only as a minimum shop labor charge - in the time it takes me to write this I could diagnose 4 of you systems) or you need to get the wiring diagram and a couple tools and learn how to test. ------------------ Steve Brotherton Owner 24 bay BSC Bosch Master, ASE master L1 26 years MB technician |
Thanks Steve, I'll test it or fix it. I do appreciate your help.
Loretta |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:27 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website