Going to change rotors, what else should I do since they're off?
 

I'm going to change the rotors soon and since they're going to be off is there anything that I should do in that area? Maybe bearings or something?

On a 124 you won't get into the bearings when replacing the rotors. Unless you want to, of course.

If it were my car, I would check the wheel bearing adjustment and pack if it hadn't been done in a while.

I always take the opportunity when in that area to look around carefully at the tie-rod ends, the ball joints, the control arm bushngs, the sway bar bushings, the steering dampener, the shocks and if possible the top strut (big rubber mount at the top).

It goes without saying that I would of course check the pads and the pad sensors.

Overall, this is one of those times where one can get up close and personal with the suspension and other parts. It is the opportunity to check for leaks, unusual wear items etc. It is also why some people will always remove the under tray and drain their oil instead of suctioning it out.

Haasman

Im looking in on this thread from the uk. when you talk about rotors do you mean the discs

Yes.

Here's all the stuff that I'm going to do:

1) Change oil and filter
2) Change rear diff. fluid
3) Change power steering fluid and filter
4) Change transmission fluid and filter, also in the torque converter
5) Change air filter
6) Change cabin filter
7) Change spark plugs (cap and rotors replaced recently)
8) Change brake fluid, pads, rotors, master cylinder
9) Change fuel filter
10) Adjust parking brake

I will take a look at everything to make sure that it's all ok. I'll search on the bearings and see what to look for and how to work on them.

Your car doesn't have a cabin filter.

They were only equipped on 1994-1995 W124's.

:confused: Not the recirculating filter but the one that goes under the windshield wiper, whatever it's called. :confused:

Right. The filter that is under the winsheild wiper motor is the cabin filter for the HVAC system. It removes allergens / dust / pollens from the air.

I've never heard of a recirculating filter....:confused:

The W140 cars have them.

When changing the calipers the MB CD's say to replace the self locking bolts. I was reading another post and it was suggested that the bolts can be reused by cleaning them and putting loctite on them.

It is recommended to use new bolts. The new ones have what is called micro-encapsulated beads of a material similiar to loctite.

I have been using Loctite on the old bolts after careful inspection and not finding any problems.

I will replace the bolts the next pad change though, since they have been reused several times.

Haasman

W123 had this factory "locktite" as well? Perhaps why I had so much grief getting the bolts off yesterday(to un-stick the parking brake adjuster, ugh)?

Not to question a Mercedes recomendation, but, replace the bolts? The ones on the 300D were substantial parts, I can't imagine a failure. I'd re-locktite them and pronounce it good I think. Something I'm missing?

Replacing rotors/discs
 

I've got a 400E and was faced with a $400.00 price to replace my rotors and I thought I'd see if I could do them myself and I stumbled on this website.

Can a fairly adept do-it-yourselfer with normal tools (such as me) replace the rotors? Any websites with instructions, etc.?

Thanks a bunch,
Bob ;)

OEM pads come with new bolts -- they are the ones that hold the sliding side to the pins and bushings, not the caliper mounting bolts. You don't have to remove the mounting bolts to change the rotor, just swing the caliper up out of the way. Very nice. You only have to remove one bolt per side -- sliding part then swings up out of the way to reveal pads.

Make sure you get the antirattle spring UNDER the caliper, not with one side sticking up through, they squeal and clank otherwise.

Rotors are held on by lug bolts and a hex socket screw, so you only have to remove the screw to change them. They may (will) be stuck, though. Clean hub completely of rust and crud before installing new ones, make sure you get the cosmoline off the rotors, and use some antiseize between hub and rotor so that the next time the won't be rusted on.

Peter

do the steering damper - it's worth it! if you're gonna do loctite - it's the blue kind you should use. i couldn't get the self lockers at the dealership separately (i went with PBR deluxe pads)...

I wish that I could do that but my car has the 4 piston fixed caliper front brakes.:(

While its all apart, you should change the brake splash shields. over a period of time they deteriorate allowing water to splash onto the brakes causing the rotors to warp. Oh, one other thing, don't worry about changing the pads with the rotors. Its not like they're a wear matched set or anything.
P.S. don't waste your time with that cheap blue loctite, use the red instead its much stronger.

You didn't say how many miles on the car, but you might want to take a look at the flexible brake lines, too. They get spongy after awhile and new ones on all four corners will really firm up the pedal. Might even look at the SS braided teflon types.
Cleaning up the sensors and "cogs" for the ABS is a good thing to do. May need new pad sensors, too, come to think of it.
Looks like a nice weekend of car/driver bonding!
Best regards,
Hazen
91 300TE 4Matic
134k mi.

Hmmm. As I remember, red loctite is for permanent fasteners; blue for fasteners you want to re-use. See this
http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?pageid=320&layout=1

Blue is what MB puts on their micro-encapsulated bolts for the brakes. It's what I would recommend, too.
Best,
Hazen

Well, I did all the work I was planning on doing and it turned out very well. The largest improvement is in the braking system, it stops much better and the pedal feel is very firm. This car should be good for a while longer. Thanks for the help:D