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#1
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This is my first time in the forum so I'm sure my question has been asked so...thanks in advance for your help. Three months ago I had the front pads replaced with factory original pads and factory rotors. From the get-go they are the worst for brake dust I've ever seen. What dustless pad can I use to replace them with and..do those dust protectors work? Car is a '94 E320 with 75,000 miles.
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#2
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The OEM stuff is the worst for brake dust because of soft compounds mercedes uses
and if you have the 8 hole or 15 hole stock wheels it's a real pain. What some people have done is change the rotors to aftermarket ones which enables them to use metallic pads. |
#3
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EBC claims thay have brake pads that have no brake dust and zero rotor damage. I don't know anyone that has tried them so I can't tell ya if its true. I'll probably try them next time I change pads.
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#4
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Are metallic pads better in all respects, are there any drawbacks other than price?
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#5
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I am going to commit a heresy and suggest that you get brake shields. Unless you intend to race the car or otherwise push the limits, this will not harm the braking performance. We have had them on our cars for 20 years with no ill effect.
You are better off, I believe, sticking with the good stuff in terms of pads and rotors and controlling the dust with shields. They are $30-40 per pair and can be purchased at dealers or the larger Euro part stores. ------------------ Chuck Taylor Falls Church VA '86 300E 5 speed '95 C220 (wife's car) '98 Porsche Boxster Past: '79 280E, '82 300D (18 yrs), '77 240D, 4 250C's |
#6
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The brake shields are the worst thing you can buy. The dust needs to escape and the shield will block that. Where does the dust end up? All over the inner part of the wheels. This is another cause of brake squealing since the dust is all over the pads and calipers, etc.. Replace the pads to a semi- metallic pad. I use Frictiontech pads on my 16 valve 190. The dust isn't as ugly or black. Good Luck, Joe
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#7
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I love the brake dust...it is just the nature of the car. MB's and BMW's both generate a lot of brake dust on the front wheels. I wouldn't worry about it too much. It comes off VERY easily w/ a garden hose, if you regularly do it like every weekend.
------------------ 1995 Mercedes-Benz E420 (W124 - Black Pearl/Black) |
#8
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I've got the shields on my 300D and it DOES seem to keep the dust off the rims. I disagree with Joe-1. I have had them on for awhile now and my brakes haven't squealed yet. Maybe its quite a number of factors as to whether they will be good or not. I just replaced my front pads today and there wasn't an excessive buildup of dust on the wheel or the brake components.
------------------ FrankieZ 84 500SEL EURO 87K 85 300D 267K (and still goin' strong) [This message has been edited by fz500sel (edited 07-07-2000).] |
#9
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The MBZ pads have a very high coefficient of friction and are very wear friendly to the rotors. Harder pads need higher pedal pressure to give the same braking, and wear the rotors much faster.
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#10
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I've posted on this subject before. Upgrading the brakes on my Benz was the best favor I ever did myself or my car. I will try to address the previous post in the order they appear. First, I agree with the original poster. Brake dust is the most irritating aspect of owning a Benz (Sorry Duckmuck) yes it comes off with water but if you have a 50 mile round trip to work like I do, you'd be out there everyday (like I was) not once a week cleaning your wheels. I don't know about you, but I signed up to drive a Benz, not a garden hose.
Next, aftermarket rotors do not enable you to use metalic pads anymore than stock benz rotors. They are both made out of cast iron, one is no better than the other. If you want improved rotors, you are now talking forged steel (and huge dollars) mostly made for racing apps. Metalic pads will chew through rotors slightly quicker and thats the rub, but who cares at approx $50 bucks a pop for rotors. What you gain in reduced brake fade and time savings from not constantly cleaning your wheels more than makes up for it. Besides, you don't use metalic pads to rid yourself of brake dust (especially in this day and age) you use carbon-kevlar or a derivitave. That's wht EBC is. Unfortunately, they are hard to find in this country and have a very limited list of apps. These types of pads are "rotor friendly", decrease brake fade tremendously, and produce almost zero dust. The best source I know for carbon-kevlar pads is http://www.porterfield-brakes.com . If Tim doesn't have your app he will make you some out of an old set of your pads (don't worry, he's got apps for almost every Benz in stock) but he will also make a pattern out of your old pads so the next time you need some you can just call and order. Cost? Maybe $75.00 to $150.00 for fronts, less for rears. Yes, brake shields are heresy and they are the worst thing you can put on your car (for your brakes anyway). Reason being, they do not allow your brakes to cool properly. Along with warped rotors (and relatively quickly) you will encounter huge increases in brake fade caused by heat that can increase stopping distances 25 to 50 percent. You may want to train yourself to compensate for this by altering your driving style. I don't. What a wonderfully demonsterative term Kebowers. "High coefficient of friction". And what you say about "harder pads" definetly applies to metalic and metalic based pads. However, carbon-kevlar actually yeilds a higher coeficient of friction than organic requiring less pedal pressure and superior braking. The ONLY drawback that I am aware of with the pads I am proposing is that the first couple of stops every morning can be a little unnerving. Carbon-kevlar pads need a little temperature in them to work. After you realize this they are a pleasure to use. Paul [This message has been edited by PJozefiak (edited 07-08-2000).] [This message has been edited by PJozefiak (edited 07-08-2000).] |
#11
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Paul:
My local performance brake shop (very reputable place) told me to hold off a year on the composite pads, as he has seen some cracking/fragmenting occur on the street versions. He feels that the wrinkles are still being worked out, on the composites and on the new ceramics as well. Have you heard anything about these problems, or is he being conservative. (he does lots of Ferraris, Vettes, Cobras, Lotus, etc.) ------------------ JCE 87 300E, 65k miles Smoke Silver |
#12
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JCE,
I guess I wouldn't consider what I get from Porterfield a "street" pad although Tim advertises his R4 pad as a street version of his racing pads. He has been making pads for racing apps for over 10 years. I don't know exactly how long, so I'm being conservative. My car has worn his pads for over two years without problems (winter in Mich too). Please keep in mind, this is not some "fly by night" brake pad company making apps for Hondas. This is a guy who specializes in custom making complete brake systems for heavy duty racing applications. Brakes are all he does. Racing is the mainstay of his business. Go visit his website, it's pretty impressive. You can also call and request a catalog which I think is a lot more comprehensive look at what he does and how his business is geared. Its may not be the cheapest thing on the market, but you didn't buy your car because it was either, and you get what you pay for. See if your friend with the brake shop has ever heard of Portefield. If he hasn't, he'll thank you for turning him on to a great supplier. Paul. |
#13
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I dont know about some of you guys, but having that nasty and corrosive brake dust ruining a set of $2500 wheels isnt my idea of having a good time cleaning wheels every weekend. If you replace your stock pads with a semi metallic pad, your braking peformance will increase and you wont get that typical "MBenz/BMW brake dust look". The brake pad is the source of this problem. A shield only masks the problem.
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#14
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I heard that Axxis Metal Masters are the best brake pads for low brake dust. Finding them is another story.
Jay |
#15
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My experience has been with using crossdrilled rotors and semi-metallic Beck_Arnley pads. Its on a 2.3 190e...and they have 120,000 miles on them. No dust and very progressive braking. I know it ain't supposed to be true...just my experience. I changed the calipers to 300e (larger 288mm) aka 2.3-16 (same part #)and low and behold...braking somewhat?improved, but pads replaced at 12,000 and lots of corrosion on the chrome rims. Thats what tinkering around got me. I think a good compromise is using slotted rotors with a harder low dust pad.
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