Check Engine Light - 97 E420
 

I washed the engine yesterday afternoon with a garden hose (light pressure spray patern) and the check engine light came on this morning. The engine was running rough for a bit and then turned back to smooth running condition after about 5 miles of driving, however, the check engine light is still on now. Did I screw something up? Will the light reset itself after a few starts or do I need to go to a dealer/repair shop for this?

TIA gor any advises.

Garry
1997 E420 w/75K miles

:confused:

You probably set a misfire code. Get your AZ to read and reset it for you. It may reset soon, but it should take 40 key cycles.

What is "AZ" mean? Is it a repair shop?

Thanks, Garry

AutoZone. Most AZ stores will pull OBDII codes and clear them for free. Since they are not likely to have any parts to sell you for a MB they may say they can't do it, but OBDII is OBDII.

Resetting Check Engine Light 1995 E420
 

Can anyone help? I have a 1995 E420 w/ @91K miles. I've had problems with Check Engine before. About 14 mos. ago, had mechanic "rebuild" total wiring harness to avoid paying $2k for new one. It has run well since, but did come on once or twice within first few weeks, and had to be reset (since it's a '95, OBDII can't be used I guess??!). Anyway, CheckEng.light also came on about 8 mos. ago, and another mechanic detected code for loose/unhooked vacuum hose. Hose was reattaced, and no eng light until last week when I had the car detailed, including engine, in preparation for selling the car. Car ran real rough (idle, etc) when detail was done, but improved to nearly perfect once it "dried out."? Light has since come on despite an independent MB mechanic resetting it (after printing me out a host of codes in computer; for which I was charged $95). I returned it to him to reset it again, and he said I need to replace entire wiring harness (about $2k) and that that is what is causing light to keep coming on. I was charged another $150 to reset and to have him tell me I need new harness (but he can't guarantee that that will totally solve the Check Engine Light problem!!??). I really need to sell car due to personal financial probs., but can't until I get light to go off and stay off. Car is running fine and idling fine at present. From prior post, will disconnecting battery do the trick for long period of time? How reset code or button(?) under the cover of the computer? Would spark plug change help maybe? Any ideas. I don['t think there's any shorts in re-built harness, but I'm pretty sure the engine steam clean was culprit for causing rough idle and running, and for getting light to go on and not want to be reset or stay off. Some of codes printed by $95 and $150 mechanic are as follows: 004-Hot Wire Mass Air Flow Sensor voltage too High/low; DIAGNOSTIC MODULE: 010=CTP (IDLE)Recognition from EA, CC, ESC CONSTANT GROUNDED; BASE MODULE: 005-Max Temp in Module Box Exceeded M2/2; 006 A/C Compressor clutch blocked A9; 010-Fuse F2 or control module N16/1; ACCELERATION SLOP REGULATION: 005=RPM Sensor RR L6/4; 030 CAN: no reception from EA?CC?ISC; CRUISE AND IDLE SPEED CONTROL: 004=Hot Wire Mass Air Flow sensor; 010= CTP (idle) recognition from EA,CC, IOSC constantly grounded; ELECTRONIC ACTUATOR & CLOSED IDLE pOSITION?: 048= Reference potentiometer, potent. monitoring M16/1r1; 117 CAN; no reception from EZ N1/3; 224 CTP (idle) switch S29/3. HELP. IDEAS> Thanks. Rich.:wacko: :eek:

You should start your own thread.

And use some paragraphs. I didn't bother reading the post.