I had an allignment done at the dealer adn was told that my ball joints were sticky and would soon need replacement, now only about 6 months loater the car is out of allignment again and I suspect the ball joints to be the cause. Does anyone have an aproximate cost to have a dealer replace both from ball joints on my '84 190e 2.3L

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1984
190e 2.3L
107000 miles

Ball joints list for $36.50 & labor should be 4-5 hrs.

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190E 2.3 16V ITS SCCA race car (sold)
1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

At the age and mileage of your 190E, and presuming it's not been done before, I think you got your money's worth out of the rubber parts on the car! First, you'll need to find out if they're just changing the ball joints from the lower control arms by pressing the old joints out/in, or are they going to be replacing the control arms with a new ones that have the ball joints pre-installed?

If not done already, it might not be a bad idea to have the tie rod links replaced, steering shock replaced and have the control arm and roll bar bushings replaced and the drag link.

Highly recomend that you do all of this. I did all of this on my 88 190e with 150k miles on a little while ago, and boy what a difference! It feels like a new car again.

Iggy

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Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.

2006 - Suzuki Gran Vitara (2.0 L fully equipped) Like this car so far except for trying to put on the seatbelt.
1988 - 190e - 2.3L - 172K miles (It now belongs to the exwife)
1999 - Chevy Blazer LS Fully Equiped - killed it June 2006
2001 - Honda Civic EX - 68K miles (sold June 2004)
1963 - 220S - Dual Carb 6 cyl. (sold)
1994 - Yamaha WaveRaider (fun to ride)

at the beginning of this past summer I replaced both tie rods, the center steering link and the steering damper myself, it was only a few days after I finished that project when I had the car aligned. Assuming the job would take the dealer about 5 hours and the parts cost near 100 the total cost would be about $600, how hard would it be to replace the balljoints myself and what special tools are needed for the removal and replacement of the balljoints?

__________________
1984
190e 2.3L
107000 miles

If I recall correctly, it is not that difficult of a job but one does need a press to get the new Ball Joints installed. I believe that you can remove the control arm and then remove the old ball joints with a hammer but then need to take the control arm along with the new ball joints to a shop so that they can press them in. I do not know what a shop in the states charges for this. But, if you have the control arm out, then you should also change the bushings in the control arm.

You can get all the parts from Fastlane (click above).

Iggy

__________________
Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.

2006 - Suzuki Gran Vitara (2.0 L fully equipped) Like this car so far except for trying to put on the seatbelt.
1988 - 190e - 2.3L - 172K miles (It now belongs to the exwife)
1999 - Chevy Blazer LS Fully Equiped - killed it June 2006
2001 - Honda Civic EX - 68K miles (sold June 2004)
1963 - 220S - Dual Carb 6 cyl. (sold)
1994 - Yamaha WaveRaider (fun to ride)

Don't forget, to drop and remove the control arm, you're going to need the coil spring compressor. Removing the old ball joint is pretty straight forward, but installing the new one will require a press.