steering wheel removal on 126
 

i can't get the 10mm hex to turn no matter what. i got a huge breaker bar. i even broke the brand new hex socket. (the socket part cracked right down the middle, and the hex part fell out)

if any one did this before how did u do it? do i need to take it in to the dealer to get it removed? or should a local car garage be able to do this? also is there any hard on the steering lock when u put force on it? also with the right tools it should cost anytihing over $20 right? thanks a bunch guys.

this is on a W126 300SD (1984)

The tough ones take two people. One of you has to hold the wheel tight. DO NOT use the steering wheel lock to hold the wheel. The other has to power the breaker bar. When I pulled my wheel the first time it took two of us and every thing we could muster up to break that bolt loose.

You need a quality 10mm allen. The cheapos will crack just as you describe everytime. If you split a good one (I might suggest Craftsman by Sears, just for the replacement policy) then you have to decide if it is really that important to remove the wheel.

One quality socket and two people should get that wheel off.

Mike is absolutely right. It took two people, a 30" breaker bar and a Craftsman 10mm allen bit to loosen that bolt when I changed steering wheels.

that sucks. i don't have any males to help me out. do i should turn the ignition so the steering lock is off correct? and is there any chance of stripping the hole? good to know that it will in fact come off. maybe with a air ratchet?

i just got 2 momo steering wheels, and a hub adapter so it needs to come off :)

I wouldn't use an air too, you run the real risk of stripping the allen head. To install the Momo wheel, you just remove the original steering wheel. The hub adapter with the horn ring goes on and then you slip the rubber boot over the adapter, then you bolt the wheel to the hub adapter with the mounting bolts on the hub adapter. Because of the design of the Momo adapter, it's not that easy to line up the steering wheel and it may take some "trial & error" till you get it on properly aligned, so don't fasten the wheel bolts or the 10 mm hub bolt too tightly until you're set.

thanks MTI. right now i am thinking that if i get a breaker bar (maybe $30) and an allen socket ($10) and still not be able to get it off that would suck. maybe if i take in into a shop that has all the tools it might be cheaper (seeing that it is just one bolt)

i hope my hub adapter works too. i'll post pics when i get it done. thanks a lot guys.

hmm, don't they sell beer in your town? how long have you worked at a women's prison? I understand Utah is lovely this time of year . . .

All joking aside, I think the investment in tools will be well worth it, especially the breaker bar, which will come in handy when you want to change some shocks or struts or deal with some of the other more stubborn chassis components.

Yes, the wheel/ignition lock should be disengaged and also disconnect the battery. You'll love the smaller diameter (I'm assuming) wheel, but you might miss your fuel guage and low fuel light, top of the speedo and the tach. Careful adjustment of the seat, back and lowered, might help regain some view.

say, what potential damage can i do if i have the steering lock on? i;ve been going at it all today. i bought the beefiest breaker bar and a good hex socket (all craftmens). but the damn thing is still on tight as hell. will penetrating fluid help at all?

The first time i removed my wheel, i had no help either. So...i cut a 2x4 the a good length to stand under the upper left spoke on the wheel and slipped towel over the top to act as a "dead-man". Gripped the wheel in my right hand and set the breaker at about the 10 o'clock position so i could get the maximum downward leverage with my left hand. Hope this helps.