A/C Compressor R/R a DIY'r job?

How hard of a job is this on a 85 300SD? The comp. locked up and my MB tech wants 1080.00
Looks like Performance Products has the parts for about 280 for the unit plus 100 or so for the reciever dryer and expansion vlv.

Any special tools (other than the obvious A/C tools vac. pmp. recovery unit guages)
Don't know what caused the lock up, is this something that just hapens on occasion? or maybe contributed by the mech. that worked on replacing the Inj. PMP.?

Thanks for the help and expertise, ah Yes I have the EPA correct handler's license but plan on going bback w/ R 134a.


------------------
93 F-150 4X4 110k still strong(them oil changes pay off!)
86 Ninja 1000 60k(sold)
85 300SD 168k
94C280 58K (what a blast to drive 100+ easy)

[be459]

Leon,

Since you had work done under the hood, I am still thinking that the tech readjusted your a/c belt a little too loose. The belt need to be very tight but not too tight that causes damage. What test did you do to make you think it is locked up? If you hear very very loud noise and see smoke coming up, you have a locked up compressor. Otherwise, get a second or third opinion before spending the big money. A defective belt can make noise too.

Good luck.

David

THanks David, heh though not an AGGIE, I turn off the A/C when the blue smoke burnt oder and high pitch squel overpowered my desire to stay cool. (about 105 down here)
Had Chuck (Benz by Blair) check it out too and his diagnostic reply was yep locked up! That's where the 1k repair bill est. came from. Oh sorry didn't answer your question yep belt is tight bout 1/8" or so deflection.Thanks Leon

quote:

---

Originally posted by Leon Hernandez:
How hard of a job is this on a 85 300SD? The comp. locked up and my MB tech wants 1080.00
Looks like Performance Products has the parts for about 280 for the unit plus 100 or so for the reciever dryer and expansion vlv.

Any special tools (other than the obvious A/C tools vac. pmp. recovery unit guages)
Don't know what caused the lock up, is this something that just hapens on occasion? or maybe contributed by the mech. that worked on replacing the Inj. PMP.?

Thanks for the help and expertise, ah Yes I have the EPA correct handler's license but plan on going bback w/ R 134a.

---

[DANTRCAV]

Leon:

Just completed that same function on my 81 300TD-T (123 body).

Only tough part was getting the old compressor off. My car has the GM R4 mounted low on the drivers side. If you have the same config, it will be much easier to get at two of the three attaching bolts if you have a ratchet with a swivel head. I think the bolts are 18mm. Be careful of where the spacers go (if you have them) as they are not the same thickness. On mine, only two bolts have spacers. The receiver/drier and expansion valve are very easy to get to and replace. My cost was $225 new compressor, $42.00 receiver/drier and $18.00 expansion valve.

Good luck.

Dan

------------------
Dan Taylor/ Tulsa, OK MBCA '71 250C/'81 300TD-T

Dan, thanks for the input. Yep the location you mentioned is the same on the 300SD. Question Dan, did you flush out the system? if so how?
Oh yeah thanks for the tip on the swivel head, and the spacers. I'll use a sharpie to mark what goes where for the reassembly. Again, thanks for the tip. Best regards, Leon

------------------
93 F-150 4X4 110k still strong(them oil changes pay off!)
86 Ninja 1000 60k(sold)
85 300SD 168k
94 C280 58K (what a blast to drive, 100+ easy)

[shoe]

Leon:
A great big yes on flushing the system. If your comp. locked up you need to get all the metal shaving's out. there commercially availible flushes at most parts stores. ounce you run the flush through you need to blow through the system with compressed air to dry the flush completely. then a good 45 minute to 1 hour vacum on the system.


------------------
Keith Schuster
83 300D
auto\hydraulic mechanic 20 yrs

Thanks Ken, I gather that there are some fittings I need to get once the compressor is removed to plug up one line and connect the flush to the other. Or connect the flush to one side of the line and just blow it right on through?(I'm thinking the latter)Your right about the vacuum I usually sweep the system at least once by giving it a small charge to absorb what ever noncondensibles are left and then go for another long and slow vacuum. Appreciate the help. Of the many MB sites/NG this one seems to have the most willing and humble group around, thanks for the tip. I'll order the parts and get this ready in a few weeks. Leon

quote:

---

Originally posted by shoe:
Leon:
A great big yes on flushing the system. If your comp. locked up you need to get all the metal shaving's out. there commercially availible flushes at most parts stores. ounce you run the flush through you need to blow through the system with compressed air to dry the flush completely. then a good 45 minute to 1 hour vacum on the system.

---

------------------
93 F-150 4X4 110k still strong(them oil changes pay off!)
86 Ninja 1000 60k(sold)
85 300SD 168k
94 C280 58K (what a blast to drive, 100+ easy)

[shoe]

Leon you will want to try to flush through each componet individually. Just blow the flush through from one side to the other.

------------------
Keith Schuster
83 300D
auto\hydraulic mechanic 20 yrs

[Aaron]

Leon,

Don't forget to put fender covers on the car before flushing! I always do, as I'm not sure if that stuff will attack paint. Just be on the safe side (or maybe I was being a little too cautious since I happened to be working on an E500)



------------------
Rgds,
Aaron Greenberg
MB technician
Precision Motorcars, Cincinnati, Ohio
'67 250SE Cabriolet
'77 450SL
'80 300SD
'85 380SE
'86 420SEL
'89 420SEL
'93 300E 2.8
'74 Jensen Interceptor Mk.III
'81 DeLorean DMC12
'84 BMW 745i Turbo