NormanB,
The first thing I ask the mechanic to check was the engine mountings, but he said it's still all right. Some ppl think it could be the EGR valve but i dunno where that it. The engine does seem a bit coarse compared to before, but then again, it's a '92 model that has run 150,000 miles. But what the heck, I'll just ask him to replace the mountings this Saturday and see, it's not that expensive. Will let you know the results. Thanks.

Hi Autori

Well if the mounting(s) are OK - why change them?

What is your engine speed ? when idling in:
a. P
b. D

NormanB

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NormanB
230 TE (W124) 1989 with 153,000 miles on the clock - hoping for at least another 100K

Do you know that I actually don't know the answer to your question and I had to start my car's engine to find out?!! Just shows how observant I am, or am not!! Well, I was surprised that the idle speed at P was about 850 and at D, it actually drop to 700. Does that mean anything to you? I'm totally at a lost.

Hi Autori

Those idle figures look OK.

What I was trying to do was to encourage you not to be so trusting of your mechanic and also not swap out parts unnecessarily.

These things are difficult to diagnose at a distance though - do you not have an option in your area for a second opinio - preferably with an independant MB specialist?

NormanB

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NormanB
230 TE (W124) 1989 with 153,000 miles on the clock - hoping for at least another 100K

NormanB,
Actually the mechanic I go to specializes in MB & BMW cars & have been maintaining my car the past few years. I can go to another, but I have a fair idea of what will happen. I'll be asked to change this and that. The engine does sound a bit coarse & loud, even my wife complains. Then there are signs like excessive water loss (have to top up every other day), enging oil consumption a bit on the high side, and of course the shaking while on D. By the way, does a petrol car has a EGR valve? or is it only in diesel cars? I ask because I've been told that faulty EGR valve can cause the car to shake.

Hi Autori


To coin a very old British expression - Crikey!

It seems that your specialist sees you less as a valued customer and more like an income stream!

You certainly have issues with your car and you need to review where you are going with this. Like how much money you have invested in it, how much capital is required to restore it to an acceptable condition and do you have a viable exit strategy.

I am not a MB expert - maybe one will chip in and help out but I would consider that your noisy lumpy engine is probably related to your water leak and excessive oil consumption.

You could do yourself a favour by doing some elementary diagnostic yourself.

1. Pull the plugs and examine for colour - Black is bad (oil and or very rich mixture) Chocolate brown is good. Also while they are out check they are the correctly plugs (check against your owners manual).

2. Try and determine the cause of water loss - what we are trying to establish is - is this water falling out or going down the exhaust via the engine! Examine all hoses, particularly at the radiator header, around the expansion tank - and check the cap ain't leaking when engine at operating temperature. Check the water pump tell tale hose ( which should be fitted). If you have a garage bring the car back hot, stick it in the garage, open the bonnet and check undertray dry, if it aint mop it up and then check it a couple of hours later.

3. When the engine is hot ( and I assume your local temps are above freezing) get someone to tail you as you drive on the freeway and observe what is coming out of your exhaust:

a. White stuff - probably water vapour this is bad if your engine is at operating temperature and been running say 10 minutes

b. Blue - particularly on acceleration - lubricating oil being burnt - this is bad.

c. Black - poor combustion/rich mixture - indicative of tuning/injector probs.

As I said before, difficult to diagnose from a distance and you seem to have a knack of drip feeding the latent snags you have on this car ;-)

Oh yes, sorry, EGR - I am not sure. It is a smog control device and I know the US systems, particularly Californian are festooned with these systems so I would guess you have EGR. With all these systems you can do some basic things easily -without handing over $$$$ like ensuring all the pipework is patent and connected up correctly. They do tend to foul with oily crud over time.

Hey Good Luck!

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NormanB
230 TE (W124) 1989 with 153,000 miles on the clock - hoping for at least another 100K

NormanB,
First of all, thanks for the help & the trouble you go through to entertain this problem of mine. The plugs are ok and of the right type, the exhaust fumes are not white, blue or black, more of greyish & I can't trace the source of the water loss (even change the cap), maybe due to faulty gasket. Crikey! what a mess!! (would like to hear that in cockney accent! kind of miss that! stayed in Berkshire for a couple of years a long time ago). I think I will go for a top overhaul, will probably cost me the equivalent of 300-350 quids and about 4 working days. Cheerio! and have a luvly day!

Hi Autori

I hate cockneys with a passion!

Let us know the result of the 'top overhaul'

Good Luck

NormanB

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NormanB
230 TE (W124) 1989 with 153,000 miles on the clock - hoping for at least another 100K

NormanB,
Just to update you on my "shaking at D, steady at P" problem. I sent the car in for top-overhaul, took 4 working days for the job, got the car back and tested it over the next few days. I'm happy with it 'cause all the jerking at D is gone, now I can safely leave the gear in D at traffic lights and the engine will be as steady as if it is on P or N. The roughness of the engine has been substantially reduced and the pick-up is now much better, no more the 2 second delay when I press the pedal before the power sets in. Well, they change the head gasket, the timing chain, the water pump mounting, and grind valve. Two of the valves were quite bad & leaking, and they told me the engine was like operating on 2 good cylinders. Also a few minor parts to the water pump. Surprisingly, the engine mountings were still good. Well, that took care of my shakin' stevens problem! .......... now to tackle that exhaust.....! Thanks, NormanB