Distributor rotor not spinning...why?
 

UK RAC said car was not getting spark. He said crank sensor or ignition (amplifier) module fault.

Tested crank sensor, got reading. Got replacement module still no start Tested each plug for any sign of life, yes, there's spark but not from 2 & 4. Reason was the rotor not spinning and stuck in between 1 & 3.

Are these the possible causes:
Auxilliary shaft (I hope not, big job!) or Distributor shaft? or anywhere else?

Please help...

You have either a problem with the distributor driver gear or the timing chain is broken, hope it is the first problem not the CHAIN!

Previously, engine stalls whilst driving then finally stalled whilst on the move then did not restart. Maybe more related to OVP fault? But with OVP faulty car should restart.
Probably not the timing chain, as I think more audible or a crunching sound would be heard at the time of the incident?
I'll check the distributor gear as it is easier of the two.
Thanks

Just realized, I can check timing chain by turning the crankshaft to reach TDC at cyl. no. 1

Pull the valve cover -- if the camshaft doesn't move when you turn the crank, the chain is broken. Should be obvious anyway, as it usually isn't on the sprokets if broken.

Can you spin the dizzy with the engine off? If so, more likely a broken dizzy than a broken chain.

Peter

Yes, please let us know what you find

Unfortunately, it is the chain. Distributor rotor can be manually turned cos no link with chain. Took the camshaft cover off and there it is...broken chain. It was probably on its way when I changed the tensioner due to rattling at high speed.
Made a mistake by taking the whole length of chain out, should've waited till I got the replacement and would be easier to feed through.
I'll do better on the TDC positions on the following:
camshaft groove, crankshaft pulley marker, rotor notch, cylinder 1 and re-assemble tensioner before refitting. Have I covered everything?

I also discovered that the aux belt tensioner cannot be tightened, just sitting loose. What damage could this have caused? The belt appears to be tight enough.

Pretty certain you have bent valves too.

When you get the chain in, watch the valves to see if they all come back up all the way, and CAREFULLY rotate engine by hand first. If it binds, you've probably got stuck valves hitting the pistons and you will need to replace them.

Peter

One valve is bent. Had to get timing cover off too just to install the new chain due to inexperience. Pulled the broken chain without attaching the new! Big mistake!

Also discovered a cracked housing (bottom of airflow sensor), maybe the cause of unstable idle and not cos of faulty EHA or OVP.

I have not mentioned that I had been ripped off before by two garages who seems not worthy of my money so I decided to fix the car myself and I am getting there.
First, oil leak due to the upper chain pins not sealed; he said it was the crankshaft oil seal...£135!
Second, supposed to be a FI specialist; unstable idle he said faulty aux air valve...wrong! Cost £35 used part!

A rip-off garage.. in London? No!!

Sorry for the sarcasm..

We get customers coming all the way to us in Gloucestershire from London, because of the ridiculous charges there (including the ex-owner of my 190E, now W203 C-class owner).

good luck!

Russ

No probs. I have been unlucky twice but maybe not all mechanics are the same.
Got the cylinder head back from Tipler Engineering and it looks beautiful. New valves and guides plus all cleaned up...£80 labour.
I nearly had to take off the timing chain cover again last night when the chain got stuck and would not turn with the crankshaft but with the help of a power/breaker bar and a mate we managed to dislodged it...phew! Now it is just sweet...using a strong long wire to keep it fairly tight.
I want to put the head with the inlet exhaust manifold on tonight, anyone had bad experience doing it this way?

I have put the car back together on Saturday and started as soon as fuel got into the system. Joining the timing chain is not for the shaky hands in case the linking pin drops down the hole unless proper precautions were put in place. Car runs well and responds to gas quite promptly.
Now I eliminated the broken airflow housing for the idle/cold start problem I can go with the OVP next Sat. Thanks to the forum for all the tips I acquired along the way.

junar,
How many miles did you have on your 190E when the timing chain broke?