W210 E430 Sway Bar Install - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

MikeyE430 · #1 03-19-2004, 10:17 AM

I have purchased an H & R front and rear sway bar kit for my 2000 E430. They are supposed to replace the stock bars. I am looking for someone who knows what they are doing to install. My dealer says the front should take 1.3 hours and the rear .3 hours. However, they say IF the rear carrier needs to be removed, it would be an additional 5.6 hours.

Two questions: Aren't these sway bars a direct swap for the stock ones-why would the rear carrier need to be removed? Also, is it correct to assume that a 4-wheel alignment is NOT necessary?

Somebody help me out here with any info. you can provide. THANKS!

hookedon210s · #2 03-19-2004, 08:42 PM

I recently did the install on my 2001 E320T. The front wasn't much of a problem other than the thread lock on the two bolts that attach each u-clamp had to be softened with a propane torch to permit removal of the bolts. It seems the bolts closest to the precatalysts on the V-6 were heated enough in operation to make the thread lock really stick. In fact, I replaced the torx bolts with allen head bolts to repair a damaged torx bolt. In order to install the rear bar, I had to completely remove the front subframe mount bolts on the rear subframe and loosen the rear subframe bolts quite a bit. Of course, I had a hydraulic floor jack placed under the differential carrier to both lower and raise the subframe carrier as required to install the rear bar. I also disconnected the drive shaft at the differential to get enough drop in the subframe. I did not have to remove anything else except the rod to the level control valve (don't know if yours has SLS or not. If it does you will have to spread the U-clamp that attaches to the rear bar and the SLS level valve to make it fit the flat of the bigger bar. I would do this with the bar off the car if possible). Keep in mind that you do not want to remove the rear bolts from the rear subframe entirely since with both the front and rear bolts removed it is not easy to re-align the subframe assembly and, since the rear springs are under great tension, you can be seriously hurt or killed if an out of control rear subframe permits the rear springs to leave their perches. I was very careful to ensure that I did not let the rear springs fly. I am quite pleased with the H&R bars except that I guess I need to replace the end bushings on the front bar since I now have a "clunk" over bumps. I was a bit surprised that the new bars did not come with new end bushings.

MikeyE430 · #3 03-20-2004, 11:24 AM

Hey Hooked, thanks for the great info. That answers my question about the rear carrier (subframe) having to be dropped. So would you recommend that I have the front end bushing replaced with new stock units when they do the job? Is the noise from the front really irritating?

By the way, do you have stock springs and shocks? How did new bars affect the ride and handling?

Thanks again for your help. Anything else you can think of, please let me know.

hookedon210s · #4 03-20-2004, 04:08 PM

The noise isn't too bad but I should have known to replace the front sway bar bushings on a car with 60K miles. I don't know if mbracer has polyurethane bushings for this application or not but I would think they would be the best. I am unimpressed with the stock bushing that attaches to the wishbone. My car still has the stock springs and shocks but I have acquired H&Rsprings and Bilstein Sport shocks to install. The ride is very acceptable now-the bars didn't degrade the ride very much at all. I hope that the springs and shocks do not make my wagon ride like the 2001 E55 I used to own. On rough roads (found in Florida despite a lack of snow, salt and ice) the ride was quite harsh. Interestingly enough I took European delivery of that car and drove it for 2K miles through Germany and Italy and never found the ride to be harsh. The roads were that much better and I am sure that driving the car faster had its benefits. I plan on installing the springs with the largest front and rear pads to not lower the car too much. Will see how she rides and handles.

MikeyE430 · #5 03-21-2004, 06:04 PM

Very interesting.......I took Euro delivery of my E430 in Germany also. Had a blast with it in France, Austria, Bavaria.

I have Eibach springs with the thinnest pads and E55 AMG Bilstein shocks. Rides great, just needs those bars installed. Guess I will have dealer do it at next Service A.

hookedon210s · #6 05-10-2004, 01:47 PM

Mikey, did you install the H&R bars yet? I finally got around to installing the H&R springs all around and Bilstein sport shocks up front on my 2001 wagon this weekend and I am impressed. I used the "stock" spring pads that came with my car (3 bump front, 4 bump rear) which lowered the car about 1 inch at all 4 corners after shortening the SLS rod at the rear by about 1/4". The handling is great and the ride is only minimally degraded from stock. In fact my wife didn't even notice the change on a 30 mile ride but then again she is accustomed to her SLK32's ride. Still, to my tastes, much improved handling and looks without harshness of my previous E55. Now I need to getmotivated to install the AMG Sport body kit that has been sitting in my garage (unpainted) since before Christmas. Also, I wish I could find a good E55 or E430 driveline to swap in. Dream on.

MikeyE430 · #7 05-10-2004, 02:02 PM

Hey, funny you should ask. They will be installed this week or next, whenever I can get a dealer appointment. They are in the trunk and ready to go. Will file a complete report including pix in a couple of weeks. Good luck with your project also.

MikeyE430 · #8 05-10-2004, 02:04 PM

By the way, Tire Rack told me it is possible to install the rear bar WITHOUT dropping the rear sub frame. He says you can "snake" the bar through. We'll see.

#9 05-26-2004, 04:03 AM

Did you snake the rear bar in? Does any one has picture for the front and rear bar compare to the OE bar?

Harry

hookedon210s · #10 05-26-2004, 08:57 AM

Mikey and Harry, my rear bar would only "snake in" once I dropped (but not removed) the subframe/carrier as stated in my previous post. Believe me, I tried to install it without dropping the subframe/carrier. Your results may vary. Oh, I also changed the front spring pads to 5 bump due to tire/wheelhouse interference problems. Actually, the stance looks better now. Mark