i've been thinking of ways to prime my engine.

-remote start the starter and let the engine crank
-pull the fuse for the injectors-still creates spark in the cylinders

i then went to pindelski.com and noticed he pulled the main wire to the distributor and then cranked and let oil pressure build that way.is this a safe way?what do you do with the exposed/live wire?my engine is dual cam and hence two distributors, can i do the same thing only twice and get the same results?do i need to ground the wire to the frame upon cranking?

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'95 s500 (bought for wife but can't bear to share!!!) 125kms
'92 legend 180kms
'88 tbirdturbo(fantastic car-only regular maint.)120kms
'87 mustang gt(gone)
'86 tbirdturbo(gone)
'85 mustang gt(gone-but not forgotten)

It seems like a lot of trouble to save an iota of wear in the engine. Even though the hydrodynamic wedge isn't developed in the journals, the engine internals are still coated with a thin film of oil before oil pressure develops.

I look back at my Olds 350 engine. It was just a regular engine that saw regular maintenance. When I rebuilt it after 170,000 miles (because of badly leaking seals), I was pleasantly surprised that the bearings had minimal wear, just barely past the tin plate on a few bearings.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

i was wondering how to do this NOT ONLY for oil changes(where i'm sure a thin film would still be present) bu talso for those of us who,from time to time,store our cars for some time.

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'95 s500 (bought for wife but can't bear to share!!!) 125kms
'92 legend 180kms
'88 tbirdturbo(fantastic car-only regular maint.)120kms
'87 mustang gt(gone)
'86 tbirdturbo(gone)
'85 mustang gt(gone-but not forgotten)

This same engine I write about saw storage during the winters for 17 years before rebuild. It was started anywhere from once a month to once during the winter season.

I can understand your concern. I've heard of a device plumbed on the engine that pressures up the oil before starting, but this is rather complicated and expensive. If you pull the high tension wire from the distributor, I heard it's best to ground the wire. Not necessarily to the frame, but the engine is good enough. After all, that's where the spark is normally grounded.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

kestas:how would one go about grounding to the block?

__________________
'95 s500 (bought for wife but can't bear to share!!!) 125kms
'92 legend 180kms
'88 tbirdturbo(fantastic car-only regular maint.)120kms
'87 mustang gt(gone)
'86 tbirdturbo(gone)
'85 mustang gt(gone-but not forgotten)

I don't really know. You'll have to get creative and find what works for you.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

Regardless of whether you have oil pressure in the galleries there is no hydrodynamic lubrication at cranking speed, but the load is very modest.

With or without oil pressure there is more than enough oil in the bearing at cranking speed to provide what is known as "boundary lubrication". Ever spun a freshly installed crank in a block? It has virturally no friction with just boundary lubrication.

Bottom line: On a modern engine the bearings outlive just about everything else, and you don't have to make any special effort to start an engine after an oil change or after the car is taken out of storage, even if that storage is several years.

Just crank it and let it start, but don't increase revs until the pressure comes up.

Duke