I have this weekend just finished a full brake overhaul on my 500SEL, including a new set of front calipers, pads and discs, new booster unit and new master cylinder. You do not need to bench bleed the new master cylinder. I have been using for the past 30 some years, a low pressure gas non return valve ( from a butane gas merchants ) and a length of rubber tubing. First open the right rear nipple about one full turn and then just pump the fluid through, left rear next followed by front right and then front left. I repeat this sequence until I have used the 3 cans of fluid. It is essential to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped up, right to the neck, a good job for the wife, at all times. I usually use about 3 cans of 75cl. DOT 4 fluid on this car and this time the job went well, no air and perfect brakes now for the vehicle test this week. As a footnote, I was a little peeved that I could not find on the MB service CD, chapter 42-100 which refers to fitting the caliper to the steering knuckle, I needed to know the torque value of the 2 mount bolts.

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1993 190E 2.0L (Euro.) sold
1991. 500 SEL (Euro.)
1991. 300 CE (Euro.) sold
1993. 500 E (U.S. spec.)

jammer, so you left the bar on. I have to replace the sway bar bracket on my mom's 420SEL. I will do both sides. The left side one rusted bad enough that it broke and that is where the noise is coming from now and it still pulls sharply to the left. Would you also recommend keeping the booster on? The M/Cylinder came out as did all the brake lines right?
What about the fusebox? That seems that it would be a pain. Did all of you guys just leave it on but move it to the side or did you guys completely remove it along with all the wires? Will there be some kind of harness to disconnect all the wires and remove the fusebox?
How do the bushings go on? Are they just like donuts that have to be slid all the way up from the upper control arm?
Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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David,

Yes, the sway bar stayed connected to the upper control arm. The bushings are like a slightly deformed “D” with a round hole in the center and a slit that goes from the outside all the way to the center hole. They look like the rear sway bar bushings only larger. You slightly spread open the bushing, place the slit against the sway bar, increase the gap between the sway bar and the body then spread open the slit and push against the sway bar until the bar rests in the bushing center hole. Using silicon grease makes that part of the process go with less effort. You don’t slide it all the way from the end of the bar. Everything stayed in place except the fuse box. I didn’t remove any of the brake tubes, MC, booster or cables. Just disconnected two vacuum tubes and pushed aside the fuse box. To get an additional fraction of an inch clearance I disconnected the rear rubber tunnel to the fuse box and two grummets on the side of it. Not sure if disconnecting the rear fuse box tunnel was necessary. I also pushed aside the plastic cover around the opening where the bar exits the engine compartment out to the wheel well. This will help in the installation a lot. To install, I located the bushing slit against the sway bar with my left hand and spread the bushing open with a screw driver in my right hand reaching from the opening in the wheel well. I discovered this approach after going through a lot of pain trying to mount the bushing from inside the engine compartment. In comparison it only took me a couple of minutes to install the bushing by reaching from the wheel well with my right hand. No wires were disconnected. I was afraid if I disconnected the fuse box wires I will end up with my wiper blades starting every time I use my turn signals after reconnecting them. Yes, it was a pain at the time but the pain has since gone and I’m left with a better handling car to enjoy daily. I’d start with the right side bushing first because it’s a lot simpler to replace and it will give you a feel of how the bushing comes out and gets installed.

However, in your case, I would find out why the left bushing bracket got rusted first. Perhaps there is or was a brake fluid leak which damaged the paint and contributed to the corrosion. Is the area where the bracket gets bolted rusted too? If it is, I don’t see how you can get there to fix it without removing the booster. Without removing the booster the space is barely large enough to allow single hand operation by feel only. Good luck and let me know if you have other questions.

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Riadh
'89 560SL Rauchsilber
And what is good, Phaedrus, and what is not good -- Need we ask anyone to tell us these things?

It is really mainly just the c-part. I think the leaves blocking the drains maybe kept in moisture that rusted it. It aminly rusted at the top of the arch so to speak. Would that piece being broken be the casue of my strong pull to the left when braking? I have replaced the calipers, pads, rotors were turned, and the rubber hoses to no solution.
Thanks
David

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2000 Honda Accord V6 137k miles

1972 300SEL 4.5 98k miles

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The sway bar acts as an attachment point for the upper control arm. If the sway bar mount is loose at all, the upper contol arm will move and so will the spindle.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

The way I see is when you brake the front suspension gets loaded due to the car inertia. If one side of the sway bar is loose, the suspensions won’t react in a symmetrical way. That is, if the left side of the sway bar is loose and the right side is fixed then the right side will be loaded more as it is stiffer than the left side. If the forces acting on the right front side under braking are greater than the forces acting on the left front side, then the left wheel will tend to lock earlier or decelerate more than the right wheel. When that happens the vehicle will pull to the left under braking. One way to test the validity of this theory is to make the suspensions balanced and symmetrical again. An easy way of doing this is to loosen the right bushing and see if that would eliminate or reduce the left pull under braking in your vehicle. I would only do this to see how the car handles under braking and would NOT keep this setup to drive the car for more than a mile.

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Riadh
'89 560SL Rauchsilber
And what is good, Phaedrus, and what is not good -- Need we ask anyone to tell us these things?

When you have to take the brake booster off, do you just unbolt it from inside or do you have to unclup the rod from the brake pedal?

TIA.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Could not remember the pain so I just looked it up. It is job # 43 0350. You can clearly see bolts to the chassis and clip to the pedal itself.Remove spring as well. The pain was the bolts to the chassis due to limited access. Have fun.

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I actually replaced the sway bar bushing under the power booster with out taking the booster out. It took a while becasue there isn't much room but by loosening the wiring harness ties and putting the 3/8" drive socket, u-joint and extensions between the harness and the fuse box, I was able to tighten the bolts. I'll post some example after the fact pics.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.