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  #1  
Old 08-16-2000, 11:00 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Shelton, WA
Posts: 107
I just bought a 1980 300 SD. I would like to get the oil and the coolant changed to get those fluids current, then work on getting the others current.

A few questions:

1. Can I use the same coolant that I use in my Ford diesel pickup with the 7.3 Navistar engine? I use Fleetrite for heavy duty diesel engines, bought from a Navistar dealer.

2. Can I use the Delo 400 15/40 for the crankcase lube oil?

I do the basic service on my vehicles (even though it is getting harder and harder to find the time I can't stand someone else working on my rigs) and was wondering if there are any special tools that I will need to perform this work.

Thanks,

Doug

------------------
1980 Mercedes 300 SD
1994 Ford F-350 7.3 liter turbo diesel
1993 Chevy Suburban
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  #2  
Old 08-16-2000, 11:15 PM
mattsuzie
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First let me say Doug that you have 3 very nice vehicles. Second I am not familiar with the fluids that you use for your Ford Diesel, but I would ask you this, are those expensive? A little 300 SD ain't heavy duty so although it may be compatible, why spend the extra $$$ when you won't get anything much in return. Unless you are buying this in bulk, I would stick with the non-heavy duty stuff for the 300.

Regular coolant at the supermarket will do, just make sure you have 50-50 mixture. Oil weights I would refer to your manual. YOu can never go wrong with a 10W-30 or 10W-40, and / or 20W-50 if its hot weather and you're burnin a little oil.

This may not have answered your question, but my 2 cents anyway. You don't have to over kill the 300.


------------------
'89 420 SEL
'90 300 SEL
'84 300 SD (sold it)
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  #3  
Old 08-17-2000, 12:16 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 72
Doug,
Congratulations on the new 300SD. You have bought one of the best cars Mercedes ever made. Was this the blue one you were looking at or a different one?

As a former 300SD owner:

1) Use Mercedes Benz anti-freeze or Prestone made for aluminum radiators, it is orange in color. This will prevent any phosphate build up. Do not use regular anti-freeze and make sure you have the cooling system flushed.

2) Engine oil: Castrol 20-50W or any other good brand is fine. I have always used 20-50W here in Southern California and my car had 287000 miles on its original engine when I sold it.

3) If this was the one that needed shocks, make sure you put Bilsteins, "comfort" not HD. The ride will be too stiff.

Let us know if you have any more questions.

Regards,
Joe Brasileiro
1980 450sel
1987 Jaguar XJ6

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  #4  
Old 08-17-2000, 09:41 AM
mattsuzie
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20W-50 might not work as well in Washington State than Southern California in the winter.
Sure you can extra for Mercedes coolant, but for an ol SD like that coolant from the supermarket will do. They make that stuff pretty universally well now, but still due your own research.

------------------
'89 420 SEL
'90 300 SEL
'68 Olds 88 Convertible
'84 300 SD (sold it)
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  #5  
Old 08-17-2000, 10:12 AM
LarryBible
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Wait!

Some of the oils that were mentioned here are not certified for diesel engines. The 15W40 Delo 400 Multigrade is one of the best oils for diesel use. The Delo is what is termed a "universal" grade oil. Whatever you use, see that it has a secification such as CE, CF, or CJ, for compression ignited engines. Virtually all oils have an S certification for spark ignited engines. My original 240D engine went 380,000 miles on Delo 15W40 multigrade, so it can't be too inferior. The universal grade oils have additional cleaning agents to disperse the soot present as a combustion byproduct in diesel engines. The universal grade oil is really no more expensive than any quality dino oil.

There are plenty of good oil brands out there, with Castrol certainly being one of them, but ENSURE that the can or jug you pick up has a "C" specification.

Also for northern climates, 15W40 would be better than 20WXX. The 15 will handle colder temperatures than 20. 15W40 is what I use year round in Texas, so it will certainly handle the summer season.

As far as anti-freeze goes, I use whatever decent ethylene-glycol I can get and change it frequently.

As far as using "heavy duty" stuff not being worth the extra cost, if it's worth driving and maintaining, it's worth the best. And in the case of oil and antifreeze, the good stuff only costs a little more.

Good luck,
Change oil hot and change oil often,

------------------
Larry Bible
'84 Euro 240D, 523K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles

[This message has been edited by LarryBible (edited 08-17-2000).]
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  #6  
Old 08-17-2000, 02:53 PM
mattsuzie
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Exactly Larry. Use your own due diligence and it does not hurt to consult with your manual if you still have it.

------------------
'89 420 SEL
'90 300 SEL
'68 Olds 88 Convertible
'84 300 SD (sold it)
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  #7  
Old 08-18-2000, 11:39 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Shelton, WA
Posts: 107
Thanks for al the replies. I have taken the ar on a few spins around town. The more I am in it the more I like it.

I usually use NAPA gold filters for my vehicles. Does anybody if the filter for this car has a NAPA equivelent (I have been too busy to get home from work early enough to check it out) ?

I priced shocks for the car and needless to say I was "shocked" . Does $80 each sound right for the Bilstien Comforts? I guess it would be alright, because they would last a long time. However, if I could get them for less I would like to.

I cleaned the air filter this week and pulled the air filter can to clean it out. The bracket that holds the can was broken at the rear mount. The part looked rather new ( not original ). I take it this part must fatigue from vibration. I will take it apart again and repair it somehow.

I need to get some ramps so I can get to the crankcase drain plug. I have not been able to locate the oil filter yet. I am sure it is under there somewhere .

Iam sure I will have more questions soon. Thanks again.

Doug



------------------
1980 Mercedes 300 SD
1994 Ford F-350 7.3 liter turbo diesel
1993 Chevy Suburban
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  #8  
Old 08-19-2000, 06:36 PM
LarryBible
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I would suggest that you replace all three rubber air cleaner mounts, and ensure that it is on correctly and connected to the crankcase drainback line properly. Also be sure that you check to see that the seal in the bottom of the air cleaner is in good shape and fitting on snugly. These parts are very important for long engine life, and very cheap.

The Napa filters are good quality and they do provide the filter for this engine.

Enjoy your new baby and keep us posted.

Good luck,

------------------
Larry Bible
'84 Euro 240D, 523K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles
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  #9  
Old 08-19-2000, 06:48 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Shelton, WA
Posts: 107
Larry,

Is the seal that is between the "u" shaped tube and the bottom of the air cleaner only a dealer item? It is slightly deformed and I thought I would like to replace it.

Doug

------------------
1980 Mercedes 300 SD
1994 Ford F-350 7.3 liter turbo diesel
1993 Chevy Suburban
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