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Old 04-20-2004, 07:46 PM
Posts: n/a
Are these DIY on a 210?

I'm at 94K miles with my 98 E320 4-Matic. I wanted to do some of the 100K service items myself, if possible. I don't do this for a living but have decent mechanical skills.

Front brakes, pads and rotors. Do I need any special tools or anything for this? Should new rotors be turned? Any bearing maintainance needed? Can this be done in a typical home garage?

Spark plugs. The mechanic said I need to remove part of the inner fender or something to get to the plus. Is this a big deal?

I just had the guy do the serpentine belt, an alignment, brake fluid flush, and coolant flush. He is not going to starve :-).
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Old 04-20-2004, 08:13 PM
blackmercedes's Avatar
Just a guy
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: St. Albert, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,492
I did the brakes on my W202 C230 without any special tools, then took it to the dealer and had the brake fluid changed and system bled. They don't charge much for that job and gave me peace of mind. I didn't tackle brakes on the E300, but I understand the W210 is pretty much the same as the W124 outlined in the DIY section on this site.

As to the spark plugs, I understand that several on the V-6 are BEARS to get to, and with 12 plugs, it's a bigger job than it should have been...
John Shellenberg
1998 C230 "Black Betty" 240K
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Old 04-21-2004, 09:37 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Georgia
Posts: 69
No special tools needed for brakes besides basic tools (including a pad depresser (cheapy tool from any parts store or c-clamp will do)

New rotors should not have to be machined. Before replacing the old rotors, measure the thickness (min spec on rotor).

No bearing work should have to be performed (they are not hubbed rotors, so the bearing is seperate and stays on the hub)

And yes plugs are a bear.
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Old 04-22-2004, 09:01 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 401
None of the jobs you speak of are difficult. I did the plugs on my E430 - not bad at all. The trickiest part is getting the boots loose. I hear you can use one of the old M-B valve adjusting crowfoot wrenches, but I had given mine away. I used a hook from a peg board (the board you put up on the wall and put hooks for tools on). I spread the part that fits into the peg board for a nice fit over the metal part of the boot, slipped a piece of 1/8" pipe over the hook part, and pried against the valve cover. Remove the entire coil unit from the valve cover and set aside. A spark plug socket with a 4" extension should work perfect. I removed the air cleaner housing on the pass side. Just go slow and careful.
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Old 04-22-2004, 09:31 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: east coast
Posts: 1,255
check the DIY section tab on the top of these pages on this site for a photo/text description on how to do the brake job. Mercedes discs get replaced not turned - they are priced accordingly.

rear discs can be a bit tricky to remove due to the parking brake, learn how to relaease the rear parking brake through the tiny holes in the rear hubs.

I am curious about the wheel bearings, however? do a search on recommended intervals, or ask your dealer what the recommended repacking of the bearings are.
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