ar....

did you say your A/C is broken? do you mean no cold air or what?

when you say your fan spins HIGH, this will because your car think its VERY HOT!!!! in this circumstance, its usually above 117 degree C. At this temp., the car A/C will go into emergency shut off mode to prevent the car from over heating....

maybe u can fix the A/C as well!

h_shek,

Sorry for the confusion... I really appreciate your help.

The A/C evap is dead, so the A/C is not being used, no refrigerant. I do get cold air in the cabin if that's what you were asking.

With respect to the temp, my temp gauge has always shown 80 - 85 deg C (once warmed up) before and after this fan problem of mine.

Are you sure this sensor of mine does double duty (from your prev post). I ask since my car is supposed to have this sensor (Engine temp sensor) and another sensor (Water temp sensor) pictured on my prev post...

thanks,

__________________
sjsfiji

'87 W124 260E (DD)
98K orig. mi. @7/15
CLK 7-Spoke Forged Wheels
Neuspeed springs/Bilstein Sport
4/3 bump (F/R)

'97 993 Carrera
106K orig. mi.
Always driven like it's stolen

no I am not 100% sure.

HOWEVER the one shown in your earlier picture is a sensor with poles.

The cluster sensor is a single pole sensor and the harness is also a single hole harness. From the look of the "2" picture, the 2 poles looks just like the CTS plug while the single pole looks just like the cluster harness.

I could be wrong, but I have a feeling that I am right on this.

just unplug the single pole and see if your cluster reads ZERO!!

your refg. pressure sensor is located at the reciever dryer. I have a feeling that is short as well!

lets focus on the CTS before the refg. sensor.

BTW, did your aux. fans always spin at LOW before the wash?

dude.. read this article from someone:

TAKE PARTICULAR CARE IN READING THE SECOND PARAGRAPH, THE "SIDE NOTE".

I THINK I HAVE SOLVED YOUR PROBLEM.

GO BUY A NEW SENSOR!!!!
-------------------------------------------------------
You can damage the engine spraying cold water on a hot engine in some cases! It's not bunk. The old OM61x iron-head engines seem pretty impervious to damage and I've not heard of one acting up after a cold wash on a hot engine. HOWEVER, the OM60x engines with aluminum heads are a different story! Even after letting it cool so the dash gauge was down to 50-60C, I got frightening cracking and popping noises when using the high-pressure rinse at a coin-op car wash. Sure enough, I ended up with a few drops of oil in the coolant, which really really pissed me off (NEW head and gasket less than 10kmi earlier). The oil amount was tiny, so I torqued the head bolts in sequence another 1/8 turn each, and so far that has seemed to cure it. Had a similar problem with the old head & gasket as well. Don't screw around with aluminum head engines. My trick is to drive the car to the car wash, put the heater on MAX, then kill the engine but leave the key on. The electric auxiliary coolant pump will force coolant through the heater core and the fan on MAX will cool the engine significantly inside 15-20 minutes. Leave it like that while you're jacking up one corner of the car (for better access to the underside), and spraying Engine Brite on everything. Then rinse it.
Side note: The 3-prong temp switch on OM603 engines, that triggers the electric radiator fan in front of the condenser, DOES NOT like to get wet. If you spray it with water, IT WILL switch on and may not ever switch off. This has happened to two of my switches personally, plus at least 2-3 other people I know of - in all cases a new switch cured the problem. Simply placing the plastic cap from the Engine Brite can over the switch, to prevent *direct* spray on it, prevents the problem. But don't think everything electrical in the engine compartment is impervious to water spray - that just ain't true!

h_sheck,

"your refg. pressure sensor is located at the reciever dryer. I have a feeling that is short as well!"

A) I think so too since A/C does not work and fan is always ON @ LOW rpm. I never thought of that... I thought it always ran. I should check if the fan stops when I turn the ACC OFF from the dash.

"BTW, did your aux. fans always spin at LOW before the wash?"

B) Yes, as long as she's been mine, it's always been running in LOW speed. It's really weird that I get this problem an hour after a wash.

By the way, one of the other senior members (Arthur Dalton) I think did mention that the "Engine temp sensor" is the one that sends the signal to the aux fan via relays and the other sensor "Water temp sensor" sends the signal to the dash. I will confirm this though by unplugging the single connector like you mentioned.

Time to buy a multimeter, any suggestions?

thanks....

__________________
sjsfiji

'87 W124 260E (DD)
98K orig. mi. @7/15
CLK 7-Spoke Forged Wheels
Neuspeed springs/Bilstein Sport
4/3 bump (F/R)

'97 993 Carrera
106K orig. mi.
Always driven like it's stolen

hay read my last post... no more testing, your sensor went south!

as for the fans, it will run low when you unplug it from the sensor. it will always do that for the 124. The real test is using resistors with the right ohm! not the case for the 140.

Looks like you have a short on your refg. pressure switch. I say this since you say your engine is always 80-85 degree. thats impressive for a MB if the aux. fans were never modified.

go get new switch mate..

over at your end, u should be sleeping right? its past mid night is it not correct? go get some sleep... and get a new switch ordered

h_shek,

You are the man... thanks...

I think I understand how things work better now with your help. I'm also glad that I was in the right direction from the beginning, even though I didn't consider how complicated it really was... eg... relays, transistor switches, refrig. press sensor switch, etc...

thanks again... time to buy a multimeter and a sensor...

LESSON: WIPE not wash or dish out another $30... hhehehehehe

peace....

__________________
sjsfiji

'87 W124 260E (DD)
98K orig. mi. @7/15
CLK 7-Spoke Forged Wheels
Neuspeed springs/Bilstein Sport
4/3 bump (F/R)

'97 993 Carrera
106K orig. mi.
Always driven like it's stolen

h_sheck et al,

Please correct me if I'm wrong.

1. Fan should not be running normally, especially when car has just started.

2. Fan should go on LOW when the A/C temp switch is triggered.

{If on LOW at all times (switch seems shorted), should I go ahead and replace this switch even if the A/C is broken, ie. no refrigerant, evap leak.?}

3. Fan should go on HIGH when the Engine temp sensor (CTS) is triggered.

thanks,

__________________
sjsfiji

'87 W124 260E (DD)
98K orig. mi. @7/15
CLK 7-Spoke Forged Wheels
Neuspeed springs/Bilstein Sport
4/3 bump (F/R)

'97 993 Carrera
106K orig. mi.
Always driven like it's stolen