Should I repair this 126? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Harold in NC · #1 05-13-2004, 06:25 PM

The wife's 420SEL, 173k miles. Needs valve guides and suspension work, $2500-3000. PS gearbox leaks. Gonna need exhaust and flex disk soon. Sunroof doesn't work but that's ok. Couple drivers seat panels split. She loves the car (she weighs 90 lbs soaking wet carrying her purse, sits on a cushion to drive hehe). But she also likes some of the early/mid 90s S and E models we've looked at. Been some nice ones on this board but they are all way too far away. This car is PROBABLY good for another 100k if we fix the stuff. These cars are beautiful but begining to look dated rather than classy (MHO only!). I have of course been reading all the "are they worth the maintainance" threads. I know, it is all "Well what do you want?" I guess we don't really know, that's why I am posting this message. Also, WHICH S/E MODELS ARE THE BEST AND WORST? Thanks for your input.
Harold and Sharon

126nut · #2 05-13-2004, 07:24 PM

If you are an accomplished DIY'er then I would go ahead and fix the 126 but since it has slipped into such disrepair I assume you are not. From what I've heard the early 140's are even worse in regards to repairs, much more expensive parts to boot. I am pretty good at fixing stuff but after buying my latest 126 and working on it nonstop for the last few months I am beginning to wonder. Came this close to buying a mid 90's Lexus before spotting the 126, got the Benz on the cheap but midway thru my head gasket replacement and tranny overhaul I was getting quite remorseful. Now I see the light at the end of the tunnel and feel much better, the 126 is a beautiful car, much classier than the first or second gen LS400's by far.

sixto · #3 05-13-2004, 08:02 PM

How about another 420SEL with fewer miles? A good one won't cost you more than $4000 if you're patient.

Sixto
95 S420
87 300SDL

Harold in NC · #4 05-13-2004, 11:11 PM

Thanks for the replies. (Lots of lookers!) Nut, I am a pretty darn good DIYer. Timing chains and guides, mono valves, camshafts/rockers etc etc. I am not going to R&R Mercedes OHC heads. That is beyond me, I know my limits. I was going to try the ball joints and track rod mounts but then I read about exploding spring compressors and 20lb sledge hammers. I'm not up for that either. Sixto, that is a good idea. Drive this one and wait for a good deal. I think you hit the nail on the head. Why put $4k into a car that will be worth less than $4k? So far, all the good deals are half way across the country.
Thanks again guys.
Harold

william rogers · #5 05-14-2004, 02:08 AM

you could probably still get a couple of thousand for your car if the body is decent.I am never failed to be amazed at the wide range of prices asked for the same model of cars in similar condition........

William Rogers.........

Kestas · #6 05-14-2004, 10:48 AM

This is a very personal decision that only the owner can make. One thing that weighs heavily is the condition of the body. If the body (or coach, to use an archaic term) is in sad shape with rust, bumps, and shabby interior, then you may consider parting with the car. If you aren't overwhelmed and can handle the repairs, stick with it. But keep in mind there will be more repairs in the future. I too am an accomplished DIYer, but sometimes I feel overwhelmed with the work in front of me when I step outside.

wbain5280 · #7 05-14-2004, 01:04 PM

NO, send it to me, or I can pick it up.

jrmd01 · #8 05-14-2004, 01:21 PM

I agree with sixto. What I would do is buy another car that is exactly the same but in better condition. Then I would completely strip the old car for parts. That way any future repairs will only cost you whatever labor cost will be...if your a DIY, it'll be free. Make sure you get another car that's the same color that way if you're in any kind of minor "fender-bender" accident, all you'll need to do is "bolt off and bolt on" - - - you save money again by not needing a paint job.

You also have the option to part the car out. Get rid of the things you don't need and keep the things you think you'll need in the future. I'm sure you'll be able to get approx $1000-1500 parting the car out and keeping the things you want.

SCOTTFISH · #9 05-14-2004, 01:32 PM

Harold, I agree with some here that say the 140's are much higher on maintenance. When I was looking for a 86-91 420sel, told a friend who sells MB at the dealership, who happens to also drive 86-91 560sel(126) and he said if I found a 140 that had had the compressor on the ac repaired or replaced, it might be an ok buy. He said that the motor was basically poured in around the compressor and if it goes out, it was easily a $2000-3000 job to fix. I have a 90 420sel that I found with 100k on it. I only gave $8200 for it, but it was in real good shape. On the 126's(v8's) you want to make sure you either find one that has had the timing chain job done or plan on having it done if the history is unknown on the car. Every 100k is a wise time to do it because from what I read, this is the achillies tendon of the car. I have also a 300se. I would definately NOT recommend the inline six motor found in the 300se/sel. There seems to be a major problem with oil consumption with these cars. I have had the normal valve job done to correct the oil problem and it still consumes just as much oil. It will consume about a quart and a half every 700-800 miles. Stay away from the inline six if you are looking for less aggravation. My 420 sel does not use a drop between changes. I don't know how the prices are in other parts of the country, but a 86-91 420sel that is for sale for only $3000-4000 is probably going to have quite a bit of miles and probably problems. Out of the 86-91, I would recommend going with at least an 89 if not a 90 or 91 versus the 86 and 87. It seems there were some minor changes in the workings between the years and the later years seem to have less problems if taken care of. That's not saying that the earlier years are junk because I am positive that there are some extremely good 86 and 87 out there. If I had a choice today to buy a car, let's say $8000 or less, it would be a 86-91 420sel. They seem to be better on gas than the 560sels and don't have the expense of the rear suspension that the 560 has. They have great power. My opinion for what it's worth is that a 420sel that is taken care of and the regular maintenance items are kept up and oil changes/transmission filter changes are prompt, you will easily get 350k-500k out of one of them. I don't have any real experience with my opinion because my 420 only has 121k on it currently, but I have read enough here and have experienced enough with cars to realize that these cars are built like tanks and will almost last forever. As far as repair costs, they are not much more expensive than my 93 Nissan Maxima that I put 160k on before selling to buy my 420. I suggest you find 2 shops for repairs you can not do yourself. One to do the more simple items such as suspension, flex discs, etc. and one that is a MB certified mechanic to do the more critical items such as transmission, computer controls, etc. You will save yourself some bucks on the jobs you have to farm out if you will do this. I hope this will help you on your decision. I would check www.autotrder.com for some good deals. Some small time dealers are even starting to advertise on there. I bought mine from a dealer in NC.

126nut · #10 05-14-2004, 02:59 PM

Well said Scottfish,

BTW, I gave $3800 for my 89 420, a few surprises but all in all I am pretty happy with it. I figure I have another $3000 in it at this point, so call it $7000? Not bad, not bad at all.

Now, if I was paying a shop to do all the work,,,

daverdla · #11 05-14-2004, 04:27 PM

Harold,
I never thought much about 126's or mercedes in general but my brother in law has owned a 91 560sel for about 6 years. Fantastic car. Two months ago I bought a 1986 300sdl. I paid more than most would, about 8k, but it truly is in fantastic condition. So far I've needed to replace two window regulators. The little plastic tabs broke. Other than that, I enjoyed over 3000 miles of luxury at 23-28mpg. The recent increase in fuel prices has seemed to hit gas harder than diesel. So I'm paying about $0.20 less for diesel than regular gas.
If you're looking for a w126, don't forget the 300sdl's.
Good luck in your search.
Dave

SCOTTFISH · #12 05-14-2004, 04:42 PM

I see an error in the website I gave you for car buying. It is www.autotrader.com . Sorry for the problem.

Hatterasguy · #13 05-14-2004, 08:33 PM

daverdla you can replace the plastic tabs, there about a $1 each, Fastlane has them. I already did one.

daverdla · #14 05-15-2004, 08:12 AM

Thanks. I didn't know I could buy that part. That's the part that broke on the left rear window. The Fastlane part in the picture however doesn't look like the part on my car. Mine is attached with a rivit. Is that a replacement that attaches differently? I bought the whole mechanism used for $40.

On the drivers window, one of the two piece plastic feet that hold the window regulator frame to the door broke. I guess that bolt was loose for a long time.

Dave

JPW · #15 05-15-2004, 10:56 AM

Check out what I did to repair my broken plastic slide jaw

"After thinking about it I was wondering why the good folks at MB made something so simple so hard. I added Electric Windows to my 98 Jeep Wrangler and a new regulator to my 67 Ford Galaxie so I figured this would be much easier.

I bought a stainless 1" Hex Head bolt, two washers and a Nylock Nut.

Drilled the existing stud out of the regulator, cleaned up the shavings and attached the slide and snugged up the nut enough to keep out the slack.

I removed the nut and two bolts, slid the regulator up a few inches pushed the window down go the slide in place and then pushed the regulator back in position attached the nut and two bolts, used some white lithium grease and the window worked great. Put the door panel back together and checked the watch, it took me total of 45 minutes from start to finish."

James