what tools am i going to need to do this properly and are there any things i need to look out for? Im going to use the same type of oil my mechanic used in june which was about 3k miles ago. So far i know i should change it hot.
thanks
doug

Dug:

I screwed up a 190E post the other night & managed to turn a head or two the wrong way. Let's see if I can redeem myself.

Just browsed an MB history manual and your car has an M102 engine if I'm not mistaken.
According to the photo, it's 2/3s of an M103 engine(6 cyl)......looks similar.

- I see you're in Okla - still warm. Given that yours is a '85 model, I'd go with 10W-40 oil...any good brand. Forget synthetic. I've managed to take too many cars beyond 200K without it and for alot less money.

- Have you located the oil filter and engine drain plug? Not sure if your filter is a screw-on-from-the-top like mine. Alot of MBs like yours/mine use a 13mm to remove oil drain plug.

You may possibly have a large plastic shroud underneath the car that will need to be removed if you're going to "drain" the oil from the bottom. If so, remove it and look for drain plug on oil pan.

Drain oil/replace oil filter. Coat filter gasket with oil before installing. Screw on hand tight, then give the filter just a tiny snug with an oil filter wrench. Replace oil drain plug. Fill engine with specified amount of oil(see owners manual).

Mike Murrell
'91 300-SEL

Mike Murrell
'91 300-SEL

thanks for the information
Ill post back with any problems or new information after im done

I hate to correct you on this, but I would NOT use 10W40 oil. It was determined several years back that 10W40 was not a good selection for small, hardworking engines. Here's why;

To make the 30 unit spread from 10 to 40 it takes an inordinate amount of VI additive. This additive is called Viscosity index Improver. In a small hardworking engine, and certainly in a turbo charged engine, this causes coking around the piston rings. In a large lumbering underworked engine, like a 460 in a pickup it's not such a problem, although personally I wouldn't use it in anything. The amount of additive necessary is not linear, it takes a lot more to make a 30 unit spread than it does to make a 25 unit spread. For this reason, 15W40, or 10W30 is a better choice.

Good luck,

------------------
Larry Bible
'01 C Class, Six Speed
'84 Euro 240D, 523K miles
'88 300E 5 Speed
'81 300D Daughter's Car
Over 800,000 miles in
Mercedes automobiles

Larry,
Hope no one thinks this post is out of topic, but I can't help but notice in your signature that you have the '01 C Class. I was invited to test drive the new C today and was very impressed with the baby benz. I cannot believe all the bells and whistles that come with it, and the dealer told me you can buy just about anything the big benz has as options. Mind sharing your experience with all of us on your new ride? The only complaint I have with the new C is the plastic door handle. Wish they have it done with wood trim to match the rest of the car.

95 R129
98 ML320

Larry - I too have read all of the 10W-40 horror stories. My '95 Rodeo shop manuals says it can cause premature wear. I challenged Isuzu to explain why...never got an answer. I then consulted with the 4 big motor oil providers...Castrol, PennZoil, Quaker State; Valvoline. I heard back from the first two. They were at a loss for why their 10W-40 would harm my Rodeo engine. In other articles I come across on the net, the problem with 10W-40 has been remedied.

To sum it up, I have two cars with small hard working engines, one with 240K; another pushing 300K, all using 10W-40 oil.

Mike Murrell