I'm not sure about the filter, but I do know that there is no maintenance requirement to change the fluid.

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Paul S.

2001 E430, Bourdeaux Red, Oyster interior.
79,200 miles.

1973 280SE 4.5, 170,000 miles. 568 Signal Red, Black MB Tex. "The Red Baron".

My fluid smelled pretty bad so I changed it. It is cheap and power steering pumps are big $$$. I thought you were supposed to do it every 2 years with the brake fluid and coolent.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

One of the best threads I have seen...

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

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Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

its not a bad guide but every 5 years will do

mind you i havnt done one of my cars in the last 15yrs or longer but i dont use them much

This thread started with a question on why it was that MB specify a brake fluid interval, but other manufacturers dont. Actually some other manufacturers do specify a change interval for brake fluid, and usually it is 2 years.

Some time ago a 7 year old Chrysler mini-van was descending Mt Constituition on Orcas Island (WA State) when its brake fluid boiled, the minivan crashed into a camp ground and killed a child. A law suit was the result and during testimony Chrysler stated that they did not specify a brake fluid change interval in the owners manuals for their cars, as it would put them at a competitive disadvantage against those manufacturers who didn't. People would think that Chrysler products required more maintenance because they needed to have their brake systems flushed periodically.

A couple of personal observations regarding brake fluid:

On a vehicle with ABS I prefer to open the bleed screw, attach a tube, and collect the gunky fluid when pushing the pistons back to install new pads. The stuff that's actually in the caliper is pretty dirty looking, and I'd rather not have it, and its contaminents, going through the ABS valve body. This also avoids the possibility of the reservoir overflowing

I don't like silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for every day driving. It appears attractive because the dry boiling point is high (500F), however it is not compatible with regular brake fluid, it is hard to pour without introducing bubbles and thus results in soft pedal feel, and moisture still gets into your system and will pool in low areas like your calipers and encourage rapid corrosion. I like Castrol GT LMA myself, it's quite good, easy to find, and cheap.

Kevin

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'85 300SD

I agree. DOT 4 is the best for road cars.

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John Shellenberg
1998 C230 "Black Betty" 240K

http://img31.exs.cx/img31/4050/tophat6.gif

BMW motorcycles recommend/require a brake fluid change every year. Something about high-performance braking systems and clean fluid...

I think BMW cars also recommend brake fluid change intervals.

Besides, no fluid has an infinite life, why would it make sense not to change it?

Best regards,
Jim

I really don't know too much about brake systems but as a graduate chemist I know quite a bit about the handling of hygroscopic fluids. Actually in some chemical reactions the slightest trace of moisture can cause a fire or explosion.
That aside, I woould like to bring something foward from the chemistry lab.
We use a tube that is packed with a highly active desiccating agent..silica gel or anyhdrous calcium chloride. This tube would be connected to the air vent on the master cylinder. Any air entering the cylinder would than be stripped of any moisture by the desiccant. It's that simple.
BTW, these desiccants are available with an 'indicating' agent in them that turns from blue to pink when the moisture capacity is exceeded.
Any comments from the mechanics in the group?

Great and novel idea of drying the moisture before vent entrance to the system ,and that would solve the hygroscopic retention properties , but another main reason for fluid changes is that it get contaminated from wear of brake system moving parts ..caliper.master,seals, etc..
The crap and coloration of the drained fluid is not moisture , it is wear dirt
and it stinks...the moisture is a contributor to the rust color from the line internals, but a fluid change solves all fluid problems and is cheapo insurance, not only for saftey sake, but for parts longevity through preventive maint......

I like the concept , though..

Volvo also specifies changing brake fluid every 2 years. I bought this bleeder. It works on my Volvos and my MB.

http://www.ipdusa.com/ProductsCat.aspx?CategoryID=1595&NodeID=5088&RootID=629

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

The braking system is a very simple form of a hydralic system, the pump that creates system pressure is your foot. All componets of the system are subject to wear including the fluid. Heat being one of the major factors in the denisity of the fluid and contamination being the second major factor.For example new fluid is clear, now take a look at the fluid in the master cylinder. Not clear anymore? Wonder why? The purpose of preventive maintinance is to prevent the failure of your braking system when you roll off that mountain and keep you from ****in your pants.

depends upon how you drive, i suppose.

if you are always doing 6/10+, wouldn't you want to know that your brakes were optimized?

i sure would.

and it is cheap insurance.

if you were being benz warranted/serviced - your brake fluid would be changed every 2 years.

don't complain. don't question. someone in suttgart is thinking about your well-being. change the fluid from time to time. just like you change your lube oil. just like you flush and renew your coolant.

the machine needs to be taken care of. and in my view, good braking is one of the most important aspects of vehicular behavior.

expense? $50.00 every two years?

don't be penny wise and pound foolish.

< now take a look at the fluid in the master cylinder. Not clear anymore? >

...and after all these threads . that is the bottom line..
Dirty Fluid- Change it...that's all..

A favorite trick of some used car lots is to suck the fluid out of the clear res. and top it off with clean fluid to look like it has been changed...

This must be a misprint:

"Flush brakes annually, using $2.00 or less worth of brake fluid,"

I would love to know what brand of brake fluid you are buying. No, I wouldn't. The term "flushing" suggests barely cracking the caliper fitting and squirting out a bit. Total fluid replacement is what is necessary and nothing less. After all, you don't want contaminated fluid in the master cylinder or lines either.

I have been replacing the fluid in my Porsche every two years since it was new in '84 and have never had a brake problem related to water or corrosion. And, it was a track car for about 17 years.

Anyway, it's a piddling expense. Reminds me of those who are determined to save three bucks by buying cheap antifreeze. Oops, coolant.

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Roger E.