Only original tire is the spare, a michelin, which I would like to replace. Wheels are original, and the lug nuts probably are too. There have some rust on them and do not tighten down as smoothly as the bolts on my SE's tires. Maybe I should replace?

Thanks guys.

Mike

The bolts are pretty heavy duty, unlike some cars.

I had a wheel sold to me where a bolt had frozen, broken, and there was considerable damage in the "seat area" where the bolt had to be drilled out - I don't trust that wheel and will probably discard it.

I got Kroil at Napa.

I think he meant 5 foot pound less than specified torque. The manuals usually specify dry threads. The reduction in torque gives the same clamping force with lubricated threads. That's what we're really after here, the clamping force.

enjoy,

mostly good advise here, l- wrench and then hit em with a hammer and proceed slowly- or even easier as said earlier- drive it down to the repair shop and get the air wrench- its worked for me in the past.

Anti sieze is not a good idea with lug nuts/bolts- not something you'd like to come out on their own. BTW- torque values with anti sieze and dry are different. I think dry threads are what is called for by nearly every manufactor on lug bolts. ;)

1. Use PB Blaster on the bolts.
2. Use a braker bar as suggested. Mine is a 2" steel pipe about 6' long. Slip it over the end of the lug wrench and slowly apply the force.
Together 1 and 2 always worked for me.
3. Always put a little, repeat little, bit of lubricant on the bolt or nut when re-assembling, and then torque to specs. A 'little bit' just covers 2 or 3 threads but on just about 1/8 of the circumference of the bolt. As you thread it. the lube will distribute over the remaining threads. Contrary to the opinion of some, the bolt will not loosen and wheel will not fall off. Have done this for decades and never, ever had a problem.
regards,
Mark

ps. develop the habit of rotating your tires.
MD