Does anybody have any experience with German Star Auto Works?
I would appreciate any feedback.

I think he means his title "German Star Motors" rather than the "Auto Works" that's in the message.

If so, check post # 4 of Ben's Workshop Austin, Texas


"German Star Motors at 904 McPhaul in Austin is very good and inexpensive. Ask for Alan."

The info is from a guest, and over a year old, but...

Anyone else have thoughts on this??

__________________
Anthracite 1980 300D -- 64k original miles with a new engine, on the road again!
Silver 300D -- second owner, Sunny's old baby, Ilse, 210 miles,
Having to thin the herd….
Silver 1983 300SD -- second owner, 325k miles
Gold 1981 300D -- well-traveled, solid little car
Beige 1984 300D -- 292k miles, grease machine, parting out
Seafoam green 1981 300SD -- 250k, windshield frame damage
too many assorted w123 & w126 cars, parts cars, and extras

What size engine in your 94 Mercedes Wagon? Model?

We have an abundance of these laying around. Let me know.

We have an abundance of these. Let me know if you still require them.

We have one for you here at German Star

Never answer... especially if getting laid depends on it.

This is a consistent issue I've encountered with Windows. In order to keep the OS happy, you must reformat annually, maintain a an antivirus subscription, and get the newer OS when it comes out.

Then I switched to OSX, had this laptop since mid '09, (mid-range Macbook Pro 15"), running the factory OSX install, never had a performance issue. Never had a virus, never had antivirus, never needed it. I much prefer spending $1500+ in one shot rather than buying a replacement Windows laptop every year.

The streamlined user interface, the robust hardware, the extremely stable software. Sorry Windows fan boys. Best of all, it still has some resale value.

This laptop has over 1100 battery cycles alone, not including the time using the A/C adapter while at 100%.

I will never buy another windows product again. When this laptop is 5 years old, I'll retire it.

I have, yes.

Certainly helps on cluttered old 98, and XP. The difference is small, but noticeable.

You want to know my 'oh ****' box?

It has:

Tow rope
String
Duct tape
Zip ties
JB weld
Multiple sealants, adhesives
Flashlight
Pliers
Adjustable wrench
Cheap 1/4" socket set
Screwdriver (flat and phillips)
Knife
Lighter
Garbage bag
Cloth gloves
Rubber gloves
Small first aid kit
Bottle of coolant
Bottle of oil
Floor jack

Most fits nicely in this little handy carry bag, the bottles and stuff just sit to the side in the trunk.

I've fixed some highway disasters with just the parts and lubricants I had in the trunk, that kinda stuff makes my day.

You could always overclock it, and get some extra cooling.

The sort of thing I like to hear.

I think I speak for everyone when I say.... pics?

You can tell who are the professional beater drivers....

Update!

2000 S430





1999 E430





1999 E320





1997 E430





1985 380SL





1983 380SEC





1999 CLK320





2000 CLK320





Stay tuned.

Like this? Or the one with the green and red light on it?

This is the only one I have, in the color, and condition you require. If the style of this mirror is incorrect, I'm afraid I don't have what you're looking for.



Believe the purpose is to lubricate the fuel system, no? There are some products in existence specifically designed for this purpose.

Most diesels will do just fine on this low sulphur fuel. The Ford 6L, 6.4L, etc, and other diesels with sensitive fuel systems will stay happier for longer with it.

The cloudy clear coat may not be as a result of your detailer. Burnt clear coat will go cloudy, and slightly brown (more the worse you burn it). It's also more typically seen in tiny areas where the metal is raised, and consequently gets more pressure from the buffer.

It's very unusual and very difficult to burn paint with the full diameter of the pad. Only a detailer that fell asleep with it on the car could do that...

It could also be that your clear was thin to start with, even though the detailer should have measured the thickness of your paint to make sure you had enough to work with in the first place.

Is this original paint?

I would definitely call the detailer back, and see what's up. You'll be able to tell what kind of person he is by his reaction.

Do a compression test, and if your numbers are odd across the cylinders (more than 15% deviation between neighboring cylinders) then you have a bottom end issue and it could be the result of your blue smoke.

If your compression test comes back great then you're likely looking at valve stem seals. Running on bad valve stem seals isn't the worst thing you can do, but I'd still get it taken care of. Unfortunately it won't be cheap, the labor involved is extensive.

There's a few ways you can get that rubber crap off. One, with a blowtorch and putty knife, or dry ice and a putty knife for the big stuff. You can also use acetone.

I would use a small cutting disc and maybe a dremel tool to remove the last of the corrosion. Either way, I'd get rid of the cancer before you slap POR15 on it. I would also weld up the seam, to keep out any moisture.

We've got some 126 Chassis vehicles here, let me know if there's something you need.

That stuff is awesome. You can't beat metal though.

In truth, any non polar solvent will do the same thing.

Absolutely. Nothing a quick lick of a rattle can can't fix.

I wouldn't use fiberglass by the way.

I'd say you're good with decent removal of the cancer, and POR15.

It makes sense to do a valve job at the same time, since they'll be out. Every shop will quote you wildly different prices. I recommend calling around your local machine shops, and then checking reviews online to make sure they do quality work. That's something that must be done properly, if it's to be done at all.

If you've disassembled a few engines before, you may even be able to do it yourself if there's no specialist tools required. The hardest part is making a spring compressor, once you've done that you're home free. The cost of your head job will depend on how bad your head is. If all of your valve seats are pitted and toast, then you'll need new ones. You'll be looking at around $25-$35 per valve seat to replace them. Most of the time you can just use a grinding paste between the valve edge and the seat to get them perfectly seated together.

You can check the effectiveness of your valve seats yourself. After you remove the head (if you're doing it yourself) flip it upside down, and pour gasoline into the concave area containing the spark plugs and valves. Watch the gasoline drain out, and watch which ports it comes out of so that you know which valve seats are worn. If undamaged, you may be able to grind them down yourself.

If you do intend on removing your valvetrain, make sure you punch the valves through a piece of cardboard to hold them in order, and label the intake and exhaust side.

It's just time consuming. If you get nervous taking things apart, this may not be for you. Lots of small pieces.

On a scale of 1-10 difficulty I'd put this on a 7-8 for your average Joe. Someone that has never removed and disassembled a head will get overwhelmed.

The older the material the more difficult to do the job without damaging things.

Why not just raise it to TDC?

I call it a BFH, big f- hammer.

Well, if the clear coat is truly ruined as a result of your detailer, I would get a quote to re-clear the car and ask them to cover at least half.

Those boost controllers are atrocious, stay away.

What's the appropriate ratio?

If you cut, please weld.

Thanks for the awesome post!!

Many forced induction forums warn of them. Sometimes they work, other times they are non functional right out of the box.

A boost controller does more for your curve than just get you to a desired boost level.

German Star Motors has gone out of business. Sold all their junk cars to Mother Earth Mercedes 512-928-5933.

Mother Earth has gone same direction!!!