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Old 04-30-2008, 07:53 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 47
German Star Motors in Austin, TX

Does anybody have any experience with German Star Auto Works?
I would appreciate any feedback.
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Old 05-01-2008, 10:36 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: in the woods in NE Texas
Posts: 352
German Star ???

I think he means his title "German Star Motors" rather than the "Auto Works" that's in the message.

If so, check post # 4 of Ben's Workshop Austin, Texas

"German Star Motors at 904 McPhaul in Austin is very good and inexpensive. Ask for Alan."

The info is from a guest, and over a year old, but...

Anyone else have thoughts on this??
Anthracite 1980 300D -- 64k original miles with a new engine, on the road again!
Silver 300D -- second owner, Sunny's old baby, Ilse, 210 miles,
Having to thin the herdů.
Silver 1983 300SD -- second owner, 325k miles
Gold 1981 300D -- well-traveled, solid little car
Beige 1984 300D -- 292k miles, grease machine, parting out
Seafoam green 1981 300SD -- 250k, windshield frame damage
too many assorted w123 & w126 cars, parts cars, and extras
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Old 11-26-2012, 03:18 PM
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 4
What size engine in your 94 Mercedes Wagon? Model?

We have an abundance of these laying around. Let me know.

We have an abundance of these. Let me know if you still require them.

We have one for you here at German Star

Never answer... especially if getting laid depends on it.

This is a consistent issue I've encountered with Windows. In order to keep the OS happy, you must reformat annually, maintain a an antivirus subscription, and get the newer OS when it comes out.

Then I switched to OSX, had this laptop since mid '09, (mid-range Macbook Pro 15"), running the factory OSX install, never had a performance issue. Never had a virus, never had antivirus, never needed it. I much prefer spending $1500+ in one shot rather than buying a replacement Windows laptop every year.

The streamlined user interface, the robust hardware, the extremely stable software. Sorry Windows fan boys. Best of all, it still has some resale value.

This laptop has over 1100 battery cycles alone, not including the time using the A/C adapter while at 100%.

I will never buy another windows product again. When this laptop is 5 years old, I'll retire it.

I have, yes.

Certainly helps on cluttered old 98, and XP. The difference is small, but noticeable.

You want to know my 'oh ****' box?

It has:

Tow rope
Duct tape
Zip ties
JB weld
Multiple sealants, adhesives
Adjustable wrench
Cheap 1/4" socket set
Screwdriver (flat and phillips)
Garbage bag
Cloth gloves
Rubber gloves
Small first aid kit
Bottle of coolant
Bottle of oil
Floor jack

Most fits nicely in this little handy carry bag, the bottles and stuff just sit to the side in the trunk.

I've fixed some highway disasters with just the parts and lubricants I had in the trunk, that kinda stuff makes my day.

You could always overclock it, and get some extra cooling.

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
I decided to order the tool and make it available to others after I use it.

I'll post pics of it in use once I get it.
The sort of thing I like to hear.

I think I speak for everyone when I say.... pics?

You can tell who are the professional beater drivers....


2000 S430

1999 E430

1999 E320

1997 E430

1985 380SL

1983 380SEC

1999 CLK320

2000 CLK320

Stay tuned.

Like this? Or the one with the green and red light on it?

This is the only one I have, in the color, and condition you require. If the style of this mirror is incorrect, I'm afraid I don't have what you're looking for.

Believe the purpose is to lubricate the fuel system, no? There are some products in existence specifically designed for this purpose.

Most diesels will do just fine on this low sulphur fuel. The Ford 6L, 6.4L, etc, and other diesels with sensitive fuel systems will stay happier for longer with it.

The cloudy clear coat may not be as a result of your detailer. Burnt clear coat will go cloudy, and slightly brown (more the worse you burn it). It's also more typically seen in tiny areas where the metal is raised, and consequently gets more pressure from the buffer.

It's very unusual and very difficult to burn paint with the full diameter of the pad. Only a detailer that fell asleep with it on the car could do that...

It could also be that your clear was thin to start with, even though the detailer should have measured the thickness of your paint to make sure you had enough to work with in the first place.

Is this original paint?

I would definitely call the detailer back, and see what's up. You'll be able to tell what kind of person he is by his reaction.

Do a compression test, and if your numbers are odd across the cylinders (more than 15% deviation between neighboring cylinders) then you have a bottom end issue and it could be the result of your blue smoke.

If your compression test comes back great then you're likely looking at valve stem seals. Running on bad valve stem seals isn't the worst thing you can do, but I'd still get it taken care of. Unfortunately it won't be cheap, the labor involved is extensive.

There's a few ways you can get that rubber crap off. One, with a blowtorch and putty knife, or dry ice and a putty knife for the big stuff. You can also use acetone.

I would use a small cutting disc and maybe a dremel tool to remove the last of the corrosion. Either way, I'd get rid of the cancer before you slap POR15 on it. I would also weld up the seam, to keep out any moisture.

We've got some 126 Chassis vehicles here, let me know if there's something you need.

That stuff is awesome. You can't beat metal though.

In truth, any non polar solvent will do the same thing.

Absolutely. Nothing a quick lick of a rattle can can't fix.

I wouldn't use fiberglass by the way.

I'd say you're good with decent removal of the cancer, and POR15.

It makes sense to do a valve job at the same time, since they'll be out. Every shop will quote you wildly different prices. I recommend calling around your local machine shops, and then checking reviews online to make sure they do quality work. That's something that must be done properly, if it's to be done at all.

If you've disassembled a few engines before, you may even be able to do it yourself if there's no specialist tools required. The hardest part is making a spring compressor, once you've done that you're home free. The cost of your head job will depend on how bad your head is. If all of your valve seats are pitted and toast, then you'll need new ones. You'll be looking at around $25-$35 per valve seat to replace them. Most of the time you can just use a grinding paste between the valve edge and the seat to get them perfectly seated together.

You can check the effectiveness of your valve seats yourself. After you remove the head (if you're doing it yourself) flip it upside down, and pour gasoline into the concave area containing the spark plugs and valves. Watch the gasoline drain out, and watch which ports it comes out of so that you know which valve seats are worn. If undamaged, you may be able to grind them down yourself.

If you do intend on removing your valvetrain, make sure you punch the valves through a piece of cardboard to hold them in order, and label the intake and exhaust side.

It's just time consuming. If you get nervous taking things apart, this may not be for you. Lots of small pieces.

On a scale of 1-10 difficulty I'd put this on a 7-8 for your average Joe. Someone that has never removed and disassembled a head will get overwhelmed.

The older the material the more difficult to do the job without damaging things.

Originally Posted by TechGuru View Post
It would be a lot cheaper to have them done without the head being removed.

This would mean finding a shop willing to do "the air compressor trick" where you hook up a a air compressor hose (with a home made adapter) to the spark plug hole to keep the cyl pressurized and the valve in place while the spring is removed and the seal is changed out.
Why not just raise it to TDC?

I call it a BFH, big f- hammer.

Well, if the clear coat is truly ruined as a result of your detailer, I would get a quote to re-clear the car and ask them to cover at least half.

Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
While I admire the inventiveness and fabrication if you had to go out and buy the Brass Fittings and other parts; you could likey buy yourself a New Adjustable Boost Controler on eBay with Free Shipping for about $15.

Several years ago they were around $10 but the price has crept up.
Those boost controllers are atrocious, stay away.

Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post

Call ANY Bosch Diesel Injection Service on Planet Earth and ask if the Manufacturers (Of ALL Diesel Injection Equipment)
have CHANGED any Processes due to ULSD...

The Answer will Be,NO.

[They (the Manufacturers) produce for a "World Market" and having to
make allowances for the Substandard Cetane Quantity and Lack of
Lubricity of "Domestic" (in CONUS) ULSD IS NOT Financially Viable.]

ANY engine System that uses Compression Fuel will benefit,
from the addition of SYNTHETIC TWO STROKE OIL to the Fuel,

Domestic Diesel is Such CRAP,CETANE Improvers can Double the Lifespan
of Diesel ENGINES.

Air & Road,

1.Regular Motor Oil is NOT MANUFACTURED TO BURN.

[I can't believe I have to point this out to YOU,of all people?]
What's the appropriate ratio?

If you cut, please weld.

Thanks for the awesome post!!

Many forced induction forums warn of them. Sometimes they work, other times they are non functional right out of the box.

A boost controller does more for your curve than just get you to a desired boost level.

Last edited by mbdoc; 11-30-2012 at 08:26 AM. Reason: SPAM
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Old 01-06-2013, 03:41 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: S. Texas
Posts: 1,237
German Star Motors has gone out of business. Sold all their junk cars to Mother Earth Mercedes 512-928-5933.
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Old 05-04-2017, 11:05 PM
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 81

Mother Earth has gone same direction!!!
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