Technical issues associated with welding floorboards.. - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

stayalert · #16 01-20-2006, 08:37 AM

not sure about the tornado part but the use of welders presents hazards that must be accomodated. They can be excellent sources of exposure to the grid (electrical hazards), superb fire starters, provide plenty of inhalation hazards, UV radiation exposures, and offer loads of spark/slag burn opportunities all the while generally requiring the use of a grinder which presents its own set of hazards to accomodate.

bottom line = recognize and accomodate the hazards......And practivce up so some day I can visit and you can weld my floor pan

#17 01-20-2006, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by suginami

Born and bred in Southern California, I have no idea what a TSC store is.

Paul,

TSC is "Tractor Supply Company." They are a Canadian company that has migrated through US farm country. They have lots of stuff beyond tractor parts. In fact, nowdays I would say that tractor parts are less than 5% of their business. They have some Chinese junk like Northern or Harbor Freight, but also have some good US products, Hobart being one of their good US lines.

In your travels look for a big, plain red TSC logo with the letters on a diagonal. If you are looking to kill time, browse through the store.

Have a great day,

#18 01-20-2006, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmaysob

check out homedepot for the miller 220v mig that comes with everything but the gas. much cheaper than anywhere else i have seen. thats the unit i am planning on buying.

The Home Depot stores in my area handle Lincoln, not Miller.

Miller makes a great wirefeed welder. The only trouble is that the 175 and 135 models have all adjustments infinitely adjustable making it tricky for a beginning weldor to work with. The Hobart Handler welder is made on the same assembly line as the Millermatic and has the same wirefeed mechanism. It is much better suited for a beginner and much the same as the Millermatic in quality and capability.

Have a great day,

kmaysob · #19 06-22-2006, 12:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarryBible

The Home Depot stores in my area handle Lincoln, not Miller.

Miller makes a great wirefeed welder. The only trouble is that the 175 and 135 models have all adjustments infinitely adjustable making it tricky for a beginning weldor to work with. The Hobart Handler welder is made on the same assembly line as the Millermatic and has the same wirefeed mechanism. It is much better suited for a beginner and much the same as the Millermatic in quality and capability.

Have a great day,

lincoln is what i meant. i like my lincoln. works great

kmaysob · #20 06-22-2006, 01:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarryBible

The Home Depot stores in my area handle Lincoln, not Miller.

Miller makes a great wirefeed welder. The only trouble is that the 175 and 135 models have all adjustments infinitely adjustable making it tricky for a beginning weldor to work with. The Hobart Handler welder is made on the same assembly line as the Millermatic and has the same wirefeed mechanism. It is much better suited for a beginner and much the same as the Millermatic in quality and capability.

Have a great day,

lincoln is what i meant. i like my lincoln. works great

alabbasi · #21 08-06-2006, 07:20 AM

I thought I had mine out of the way but managed to set fire to one of the lines. If it wasnt for a fire extingusher, I think I could have burnt my house down.

kmaysob · #22 08-06-2006, 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alabbasi

I thought I had mine out of the way but managed to set fire to one of the lines. If it wasnt for a fire extingusher, I think I could have burnt my house down.

as my dad would say, LEARN ANYTHING?

deerefanatic · #23 08-09-2006, 09:39 PM

I have a Hobart Handler 125 and Northern Tool Techmen Solar powered auto-darkening helmet. So far, it's more powerful than I need, though, as soon as I get the extra cash, I'm going to get the Mig Kit for it so I can shoot gas/plain wire through it.......

So far, I've welded rear fender areas, repaired a front fender, fixed a door check strap with it, and welded a friend's lawn mower deck! Plus many small odds & ends jobs.....

Well worth the $400 I put into it all total....

JDmills · #24 08-19-2006, 11:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

This is a structural repair, not a pressure certified weld.

It does not need to be air/water tight every millimeter, and that is not desirable with unibody flexibility in mind.

Heat is the friend/enemy of every welder, learn to use it and respect it.

Hunter,

Are you suggesting that when doing floorpan replacement/repair that a solid bead (a little at a time) would not be the best goal to shoot for? Or is it just to put in a nice weld and not get wrapped around the drive shaft about water tight welds?

Also, How is it that too much heat will effect the quality of the surrounding metal after the weld? does it get brittle?
Thanks,
j

alabbasi · #25 08-19-2006, 11:40 PM

I think running a bead is not the best method for bodywork. Sheet metal is rolled, by welding your "unrolling" the metal and as a result could weaken it.

Spot welding is what's done at the factory, the best method would be to replicate this as closely as possible and then seal the weld.

whunter · #26 08-20-2006, 12:12 AM

You never (strip) prepare welding areas earlier than 48 hours before welding.
The longer it is naked = more time for corrosion to work on naked metal.

The trick is to work in small sections = never prepare more than you can finish in a day.

If massive grinding is required, a temporary sealer may be needed.

For rubber undercoat removal, I suggest the use of goggles, respirator, and heavy wire wheels = larger particles = less heat breakdown toxic chemicals, and most respirators will protect your lungs.

Grinding requires a more expensive respirator = professional automotive painting grade lung protection, ask your doctor why, be prepared for a lecture.