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  #1  
Old 05-09-2010, 09:20 PM
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Waxoyl?

What's the consensus here on Waxoyl? Good? I want to use it on the inside of my rockers after I weld because I won't be able to paint. Does anyone know where I can get the wand attachments and air sprayer for it? I can only find the pump kind, but I'd like to use a compressor.

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  #2  
Old 05-09-2010, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
What's the consensus here on Waxoyl? Good? I want to use it on the inside of my rockers after I weld because I won't be able to paint. Does anyone know where I can get the wand attachments and air sprayer for it? I can only find the pump kind, but I'd like to use a compressor.
Waxoyl is used in the UK, France and the US in closed-up panels on Citroens. It's been popular for years.

You're going to have to look around for attachments for your equipment. You didn't mention what btand/type of equipment you have but the Internet should be able to help.

There are lots of guys who spray waxoyl bi-annually in their cars and swear by it.

It is sold at Tractor Supply stores in Michigan by the gallon.

Hope that helps.
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  #3  
Old 05-09-2010, 10:21 PM
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Waxoyl and citroens, lots of it, it works, used it for years on all cars I owned but anything with rust is a loosing battle, whenever I need to weld I use stainless and TIG and paint the weld.
On rear body panels of Citroens DS and other cars ( lada, Jaguar) as well and non structural I grind clean, use a 80 watt soldering iron and flux and tin. The soldering iron does not get hot enough to damage the paint and the tin withstand all corrosion efforts for a long time.
I have heard that a lot of corrosion in europe started when they started spraying tar ( black) underbody coating over the plastomere under body coatings. Somehow the tar modified the properties of the plastomere coating so that it would not adhere to the steel anymore. As a result the steel would rust because of condensation issues.

Later J
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  #4  
Old 05-10-2010, 10:08 AM
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I don't have any equipment, just an air compressor. It seems like maybe I can just use an undercoat gun like this, but I'm not sure. I'd still need the wand attachments, however.
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  #5  
Old 05-10-2010, 10:14 AM
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Okay, just found this, but there's got to be a cheaper option.
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  #6  
Old 05-10-2010, 01:05 PM
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I have this gun and it works very well:
http://www.eastwood.com/undercoating-gun-and2-hoses-bottle.html

If you have the time, there are recipes online for making your own Wayoyl.
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  #7  
Old 05-11-2010, 10:39 AM
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Cheap alternative

Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
Okay, just found this, but there's got to be a cheaper option.
Engine Cleaning Gun
Item # 97014

The fast easy way to clean dirt, grease, grime, salt, mud, and more! Can be used with a variety of solvents. An essential tool for farmers, truckers, contractors, shops, and garages. Includes 4 foot solvent suction hose with built-in solution strainer.

■Lightweight and easy to handle
■Recommended air pressure: 60 PSI
■Air consumption: 3 CFM @ 60 PSI
Air inlet: 1/4''-18 NPT
Overall dimensions: 3" L x 1-1/16" W x 15" H

Price $7.99

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/specialty-air-tools/engine-cleaning-gun-97014.html
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  #8  
Old 05-11-2010, 05:45 PM
jmk jmk is offline
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How well does the engine cleaning gun work compared to a gasoline pressure washer. I've been thinking of getting one of those, but I really do not need something else in my garage. I already have a good compressor.
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  #9  
Old 05-11-2010, 07:12 PM
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Doesnt come close to a pressure washer, it's just a method to apply solvent. A good garden spray bottle is probably more effective.
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  #10  
Old 05-13-2010, 07:58 PM
jmk jmk is offline
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Oh well, there never seems to be substitutes for good tools.
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  #11  
Old 09-18-2010, 09:05 AM
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Here in UK, we can get waxoyl in aerosol cans, that come with a 1/8" thin pipe for getting into those tight places....

For the sills (rocker-panels) if you remove the trim beneath the doors and the plastic clips, you have a nice row of holes to get that pipe into....
--The end of this pipe is so made to spray three fans of the stuff sideways...

Poke it in each hole, a good blast and a wiggle and that section will be nicely coated...

You can also remove the rear seat-belt mounting bolt at the side of the rear seat, this will give access to the rear section of sill. (At least it does on the Wagon, I'm thinking the saloon will be the same
--I poured a litre of Waxoyl in each side....
--Its surprising how far forward this has crept with driving and I'm seeing small dribbles in front of the rubber sill-drain spout at various seams (Which Ive temporaraly bunged up)

Another important place is under the rear seat. You'll find a couple of rubber-bungs, one at the front on the side-rail, an open hole in the middle, and another bung at the back near the rear seat rest.
--Pull the back one out and shove that pipe up in there towards the back of the car, and give that area a good ole blast, as this is the inner rail that runs directly behind the rear inner arch which often rusts out....

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