Thanks Mike - funny I was going to mention big balls of white lightning too...

...I guess I need to wait 60 seconds or so before starting it then, if it hasn't been plugged in, 'cos it won't be charged.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Based on the specs listed on the tag, it appears that a 1hp 220v single phase motor would more than handle that set-up.

Suggestion: I would consider also checking out the pulleys and seeing if you can't substitute one for a larger one on the spindle and thus slow down your speed for using larger drills without burning them out.

I am making tools for Citroen hydraulic systems and I now have a drill press in the basement which will run at 140 rpm and cut some mighty big holes (almost 1-3/4"/ 45mm) in steel with ease and no problems.

Sometimes, having that extra power can come in handy!

__________________
Strelnik
Invest in America: Buy a Congressman!

1950 170SD
1951 Citroen 11BN
1953 Citroen 11BNF limo
1953 220a project
1959 180D
1960 190D
1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr
1983 240D daily driver
1983 380SL
1990 350SDL daily driver alt
3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5
3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6

Nah, electricity moves pretty quick. As soon as you plug it up and turn it on the cap will be ready to go.

Well I've got another bigger 220V motor for my home built lathe project but it has a 19mm axle instead of this one which has a 14mm one... pulleys seem to be quite easy to get hold of but doesn't it all come down to what the belt will transmit (torque wise I mean)?

(I have a book on that somewhere I think - I might be able to answer my own question...)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

You don't really want torque as you're drilling. That is of course unless you LIKE being smacked by the large piece of steel you are drilling through when the bit binds in the hole!

The belt's grip will determine the maximum amount of force but you want the pulley to determine the speed the bit is turning. It's just like your lathe. The sharpness of the tool does the cutting not the speed.

Thanks for the heads up Mike - I'll look into it and perhaps buy a non contact tachometer to get an idea of how fast the existing set up turns the chuck.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

The speed can be calculated with out a tach. The motor speed is a constant and will be listed on the information plate. Use the ratio between the pulley size differences times the motor speed. A 2000 RPM motor with a 3 (use whatever measurement increment) drive pulley turning a 2 driven pulley will decrease the speed by, (carry the two, move this number over here, scratch head and guess, haven't finished my first cuppa yet) times the engine speed. Basically a 2 is 2/3 rds. the size of a 3 so 2000 RPMs multiplied by .666 comes out to 1332 RPMs.

Thanks Mike I realised that - I was going to use that technique to check the tach!

I generally distrust labels on electrical goods - have you ever measured the output on your mobile phone / laptop charger? (You might then realise why these long life batteries tend not to last so long)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Army is also in Europe. One huge advantage to our electrical system is that we run at 60 hz instead of 50 hz. Spinning motors really do run better here because of that. Turntables were never as accurate in a 50 hz environment. Also, my college was way at the end of the electrical service. We had issues with the cycles/sec variation interfering with equipment measurements.

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2010 Toyota matrix

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'12 Volvo S80 T6
Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction

'18 Mazda Miata
No more boring cars for everyday transport!

If Tesla would have had his way... the world would be running on 400hz.

Please say thanks to the copper folks for that not being so.

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1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

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