down & dirty delamination repair on 108

[kpb]

I have (somewhat smugly) read past threads about wood refinishing and delaminating dash bows and the consequent PITA of removing the trim. Well, I've had my comeuppance since the passenger end of my bow began delaminating about two months ago. I put a wood clamp on it occasionally hoping somehow this would lead to a permanent fix Would look OK for a day or two then start to buckle and spread again.

Then it hit me, to avoid tearing the dash apart to access the back of the bow fixture nuts, I dug out my wood glue, diluted it ever so slightly, and put it in a hypodermic-type tool I have for refilling ink cartridges for my printer. Worked like a charm. After inserting the "needle" at all levels of the delaminating wood, I put the trusty wood clamp on and let it set for two days. Seems to be holding Also tried it with undilued glue -- too thick to go out the needle tip.

Also, filled in the windshield seal at the lower outside pass side corner with epoxy. Did the driver's side too but it was not nearly the gap as on the passenger side.

kpb

[300SDog]

It sounds like the original protective finish turned to dust and the wood dried out from sunlight exposure. Tung oil is what I'd use on top of that bare wood.

[kpb]

Hey Dog, the funny part is the finish looks fine, that's why I was not keen on pulling the piece to repair the 4" of delaminating area. Finish rermains glossy and nicely colored.

[mrc]

I am in the prosses of re-veneering all the french walnut in my '67 108 with ribbon cut tropical olive wood. I am a woodworker by trade so i'm familar with the proper adhesives to use and finishes that are far superior to what was avalible in 1967. I will post pictures soon.

[psfred]

The wood trim in these cars is laid up with hide glue, so simply wetting it and clamping it would work at least for a while. If it comes apart, get some dry hide glue at your local woodworking store (or by mail) and mix up a batch. Apply hot, clamp overnight, and it will be like new.

You need to replace the windshield gasket, it's leaking and that's why the glue let go.

I don't personally believe there is anything much better than hide glue for this application. Yes, it's damaged by water, but all you need is some steam and you can repair it like new. If you want, you and even completely disassemble the trim and re-lay it. Not possible with any permanent adhesive.

I've considered re-veneering my wood trim, the veneer is just the french walnut and very badly faded -- the dash bow I did a couple years ago is a medium mahogany color now -- nice, but not exactly right.

I wonder -- nice American Walnut? Macassar ebony? Walun Burl (like some 109s)?

I do recommend the factory veneer style, though -- very thin (1/64th inch) paper backed veneer. This will follow the molding very nicely without a need to clamp if you lay with hide glue.

Peter

[mrc]

You might consider using "Betterbond heat lock" rather than the hide glue, it's far more user friendly and more suited to the amatuer. It has the same desirable qualitys you describe, can be reactivated with an iron, it's heavy bodied with less bleed thru and can be controled easier with less clumping. The adhesive is applied right out of the bottle first to the substrate then the veneer using a brush, foam or bristle or even a roller for that matter.

This means no pot, no stink, and equal if not better results.

I would also not recomend burls, crotch or curly cuts...very difficult with the compound curves that are involved with this sort of undertaking.

There are a number of softners avalible that can be sprayed on the face of the veneer that make the veneer more plyable during the bonding prosess.

Since this adhesive is not solvent based you can use paper back or raw veneer without the fear of release during the top coat. You limit your selection of veneer's when you use only paper back.

< www.joewoodworker.com> is a good source for info. on veneering and products.

-Mark