108 Camber adjustment

[Tomguy]

Basically, is there any way I can do this myself (without having to go to an alignment shop)? I did a pretty good job on my own with the alignment, but am not too sure about how the camber goes - if I'm on level ground, should the wheel be at a 90° angle with the ground, slightly pitched in on the bottom, or slightly pitched out on the bottom? Is there a recommended amount of camber in degrees, and if so, is it with the tire leaning in (positive?) or out on the top (negative?)?

This is all because I had to replace the upper control arm bolt... and couldn't get it out, so I had to do the kingpin too... and now I want to do the lower trunion too because the bolt for it is pretty worn (flat) on one side (although there isn't any play in the system - YET - I want to do it because the rubber seals disintegrated, too).

[psfred]

Front camber is just about zero on these cars, so if you have a good level you should be able to set the wheels dead ahead and straight up. If you remembered to note where the mark on the original bolt was, just put the new one in the same place and you should be close.

However, unless you actually have an alignment rack, close is all you are going to get. You really need the correct tools to get it right, and on the W108 you really need to start with the caster on the subframe and go up from there.

If you change the camber, you will change the toeout, probably for the worse, and this can eat your tires up in no time.

I'm taking the 300D back for another alignment shortly -- I replaced the strut mounts and now seem to have a feathering wear on the ouside of the right front. Brand new tires, too!

Peter

[Tomguy]

Originally Posted by psfred

If you remembered to note where the mark on the original bolt was, just put the new one in the same place and you should be close.

If you change the camber, you will change the toeout, probably for the worse, and this can eat your tires up in no time.

Remembered it, put it back there and it was just as bad as when it was broken. Horrid tire squeal on the corners. And the toe was changed - I need to hold the wheel to the left (IIRC) to go straight. Tire's feathering too. I'll find my square later on and fix the camber, not planning on using my car again for a while. At least I was finally able to do the kingpin! (I did leave the old bushings in though since there was literally NO play in it at ALL and they looked like new)

I assume the squealing is from the camber and not the toe since I didnt touch the tierods and it only does it on corners (And when I take them harder/sharper, it does it less, ironically).